November 24, 2006
The Hyak Test Boat
I've been working with my 3D design software Strata 3d, trying to nail down a final design so that we can get started building it! Above is a short video of the design as it is now. After measuring the Hayak kayak hull, Ben made a very accurate model of the original kayak hull in SolidWorks. He sent me the 3D file for the hull and I created the rounded top section in Strata by skinning a row of bezier curves.
(click photos to enlarge)
The next step is to virtually (in software) carve the top section into vertical slices 18" apart. Then I will print these patterns out and use them to cut out 1" thick styrofoam sections. These foam sections will be bonded into the Hyak kayak hull and then 1" strips will be laid across and glued to the sections from bow to stern. After sanding the styrofoam, we cover with fiberglass and repeat for the inside leaving the 1" thick foam strips to act as sandwich core material.
The drive leg is shown is some detail below. I'm going with a mix of bike chain and the right angle gear box. The SRM cranks turn a chain that passes through two 1/2" stainless steel tubes down to the gearbox. The tubes will also be reinforced with cross braces and covered with stainless sheet. This will double as the structural member supporting the prop and gear box below.
Since this 'fin' is only a 1/2" thick, it only needs a 1/2" wide slot in the kayak hull to fit through. The slot has 5" tall walls to prevent water from flooding the boat. To remove the drive leg, the narrow slot leads to a larger square well in front of it that the gear box and prop will fit through. The drive leg will be fastened down to the seat rails and a through bolt in the well. A square plug will fit into the larger square opening in the well to seal it off from water and to smoothen out the bottom of the boat hull. I could further seal the narrow part of the drive leg well with two smaller, thin plugs that fit into both sides of the gear leg.
I have not yet marked off where the retracting canopy top will be cut-out, but I would need to make sure that once it is retracted, I can lift the drive leg straight up and out.
The seat is mounted to two 1" square tubes running length-wise down the hull floor and can be adjusted forward or back. I still need to figure out a way to move the seat out of the way to access the rear compartment.
Only half of the bulk head in front of the drive leg is shown - it will completely seal off the front compartment. I have NOT shown the rear bulk head which will completely close off the rear compartment.
We will probably start building the foam plug on Monday. I'll keep you informed.