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Hello from circa 1983


Hello from me - circa 1983!

Phil Events, a good friend of mine scanned and emailed me this photo from his dusty photo archives. We used to spend the weekends cycle touring around the mountains in the area getting into all kinds of various trouble. For those of you who weren't around in the 80's, and didn't live through the "one size too small shorts crisis", the fluffy hair was just an effort to draw attention away from the hideous short shorts.

Our weekly "shop day" was pretty easy yesterday. We sanded down the inside surface of the Hyak kayak hull, hot glued strips of 1/2" Styrofoam around the perimeter, and cut out 2 layers of Fiberglass roving to be epoxied down. Compared to the deck, the hull is pretty feather weight and as it is, we are planning on adding about 30 pounds of ballast to the hull floor, so I don't see the harm is beefing up the kayak skin. In total strength, it should be about the same thickness as the deck with has 2 layers of heavy fiberglass roving with 2 layers of Kevlar. The kayak hull will have 2 layers of heavy fiberglass roving, one layer of Kevlar and another lighter layer or two of fiberglass.


Matt and Ben


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4 Responses to “Hello from circa 1983”

  1. # Blogger peter

    I suppose this is in part an experiment to see how the comment feature works. I clicked on "Post a Comment" at the bottom of the page. The icon I saw at the top seemed to be a way for me to send the page to a friend.

    In reply to any earlier entrt, one issue with power transmission is controlling what gets wet and what doesn't at the bottom of the drive leg. I don't have a drawing, but I suggest that the bottom of the leg be split into a dry side and a wet side. The gear box and prop would be on the wet side and the input shaft to the gearbox, the chain and the drive sprocket would be on the dry side. The gearbox would bolt and be sealed to a plate welded to the open transverse tube at the bottom of the drive leg. The other side of the transverse tube would be sealed by a round plug. The plug would have an o-ring around the OD to make the seal and it's outer surface would be shaped to match the outside faired surface of the drive leg.

    I'd also not worry about the weight of the materials used to make almost any part of the drive leg. This is a great place for strength since weight down here supplies stabillity. The lower you place weight the less you need to provide the same righting moment. The fairing around the gearbox could be stainless, steel or lead. Lead is actually easy to shape, but I don't know about health risks.

    Peter Raymond  

  2. # Blogger Adventures of Greg

    Thanks for the advice. I can do a better job with that cog housing. I need to have someone machine a proper collar with a set screw in it to mount the cog on the axle, then I can have the back plate go right around the axle with a large flat rubber gasket on it. The front could be sealed with a small hole to access the fastener bolt keeping the cog on. Hard to explain. On top of that, i think my fiberglass fairing could fit in 2 overlaying halves with a strip of silicon to seal it up. If I needed to service the leg, I could slice the silicon seal with a knife, then silicon it shut again.

    Can you think of anyway I could FILL the fairing shell up with bondo or micro to make it more solid - yet still be able to take the drive leg out? Actually , I think I just thought of how... I could lay one half of the shell down, fill it up my epoxy/micro and place in the drive leg covered with mold release, Saran wrap or duct tape, then pull it out when dry...

    As far as weight goes, I do kind of need to keep it light, as I'll need to easily pull it out of the well during testing for beaching, etc.  

  3. # Anonymous Anonymous

    two or three thoughts,

    first, if you make a tightly fitting fairing filled up with bondo, it will be a horrible job refitting it in the middle of the atlantic and then, resealing it as well?
    arrange the front half to overlap the rear at the join, use bungy cord or rubber bands to secure.
    carry spares.

    second, you have only two places to be concerned about grounding the prop, this side and the other side of the atlantic.
    anywhere between, you'll have a different problem and the second grounding, you'll not be that worried about.

    lastly, for the drive shaft, use a splined shaft, finish with a washer and split pin. carry spares of those as well.  

  4. # Blogger Adventures of Greg

    Remember that Within is a prototype boat that will be used to gain ocean experience and to learn about how the boat performs in the water. It will need to be a bit more versatile than the actual ocean crossing boat because I'll need to trailer it often, haul it in and out of water, and possibly beach it.

    gk  

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