PedalTheOcean.com



THIS BLOG HAS MOVED
adventuresofgreg.com





form IS function







If I seem a bit reoccupied with form over function these days, I'm not
really. Ken and I are working our butts off here trying to get the
boat ready for Vancouver island circumnavigation and choosing a paint
color, boat name and logo is all part of what needs to be done and it
is important to me. Make no mistake - The number one consideration
when selecting a color for the boat is pure function - I need to be
easily seen when out on the ocean. This is a very important safety
consideration. But a powerful visual impact has always been an
important aspect of my previous record attempts and it still very much
is with pedaltheocean.com and WiTHiN (or Koa? I'm having second
thoughts on the name Koa, but more on that later).

My primary goal with all of my human powered endeavours is to attract
attention and inspire others to start thinking about using their own
human power. Skyrocketing obesity rates are resulting in health care
costs reaching upwards of 60 billion in the US (5.8 billion in
Canada). The problem is our sedentary lifestyles and the solution is
pretty simple: we need to get active again. I think what our society
really needs these days is others out there doing really cool things
using their own power. Unfortunately most kids today think a guy who
drove a jet powered bicycle 100 mph is way cooler than a guy who won
the Badwater ultramarathon. Check out YouTube for the proof.
I really doubt that the expensive professional paint job on Critical
Power human powered vehicle was necessary to break the 24 hour
distance record. But it got CP and me onto a 2 page spread in popular
Science. It also got me into the 2009 Guinness book of world records,
and Discovery channel, and other media outlets where I have an
opportunity to possibly inspire others to start thinking that maybe it
is kind of cool to do something physical. The kids seem to get it and
a solution to our health issues needs to start with our kids.

And speaking of that - I would like to ask you to donate $50 to my
charity and sponsor 1 mile of my 3000 mile Pacific crossing. Your $50
will buy a brand new bike for a kid who can't afford one. Do you
remember your first bike? I sure do. For the 8 million families who
are living below the poverty line, bikes for their kids are a luxury
they can't afford. Help me make a difference.
It takes only a couple of clicks and any credit card:
http://www.pedaltheocean.com/charity.php

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Painted!




Well - here she is all freshly painted. FINALLY. Ken and I hauled the boat to U-wrench in Calgary where we rented their paint booth for a few hours. Typical of the kind of good luck that seems to follow this project around, when Ken was in the auto body supply shop asking questions about paint, he met Chuck from Hoodlum Customs who was also buying supplies. When Chuck learned about PedalTheOcean, he offered to shoot the paint for us!

Chuck did a great job, but I can't decide if I actually like the paint color or not. It's not what Ken and I had specified and I think the paint shop we purchased the paint from didn't provide exactly what we had asked for. Inside under florescent lights it looks sort of copper - like a penny. Outside in the sun, it looks more orange. It's supposed to have pearl in it, and you can see some pearl in the paint can, but I don't see any pearl on the boat at all.

I'm hoping once we add decals and stickers and everthing else it will look better.

We have two weeks to finish - the home stretch!!!!!


 
WiTHiN in the U-Wrench paint booth
 




Chuck from Hoodlum Customs


Chuck shooting primer. WiTHiN looked like a gray battleship







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Introducing KOA human powered boat


Koa: Hawaiian for "Bold"
Thanks for your suggestions regarding a new name for the boat. You had some really great ideas that were definitely responsible for sparking some deeper thought of my own.
When I sat down a couple of years ago with the intent of developing a keynote speech, I did some pondering about what it is that has allowed success in my life. It occurred to me that the personality traits that worked for me weren't the typical ones you would expect. I'm not especially smart - I almost failed the 4th grade, my marks were below average in High School and I didn't go to University. I didn't have any money - shortly after I struck out on my own and launched my first business when I was 21, the banks took all of my credit cards away from me. I remember having to buy gas for my car at the Hudson Bay parkade downtown because they had a small car rental business and I discovered I could use the Bay credit card that my mom had given me to buy clothes with, to purchase gas from their rental operation. They eventually took that card away from me too. Coincidentally, that's about the time I started to really get into riding my bike a lot! And, I wasn't especially physically gifted in any way either. When I decided it was time to lose 50 pounds and get into shape I entered my first triathlon. Of course, it just had to be the long distance Ironman triathlon and I didn't even know how to swim!

The simple fact that I signed up to complete one of the toughest sporting events in the world without even knowing how to swim said it all. And it is typical of the kind of attitude that I have had most of my adult life. That is, I just think of something that I want to do, make sure that it is just a bit beyond my comfort level and ability, and I simply do it. And I don't quit. I don't think about how to accomplish my goal or what the obstacles are or anything like that. I just start my journey by taking my first step. Jumping into the deep end so to speak. Then I learn a little - enough to plan my next step, and so forth, and so forth.

I believe that any of us can accomplish some pretty amazing things in life when we just have a little faith in ourselves and we commit to doing something a bit bolder than we think we are capable of. And that is the secret right there. When you are bold about what you have set out to do, you will have the passion, excitement and motivation that you will require on your impossible journey. Anything less, and I think many of us just don't care enough. I have lived my life by the wisdom of the great German poet Johann Wolfgang Von Goethe: "What you can do or dream you can do begin it. For BOLDNESS has genius, power and magic in it".

So therefore, I hereby name my boat "Koa" which means "Bold" in Hawaiian.

Following are some logo ideas. I would love to hear your vote and comments (the tiki dude have chain ring teeth):



#4



#5










Following are some additional ideas I was playing around with. I like the brush script, but the orientation doesn't really work for the boat.



Koa building progress

Ken has been working his arms off sanding, sanding, sanding. The body work is taking WAY longer than we originally estimated which is pushing our Vancouver Island shakedown cruise later into October. Jordan and I don't want to leave it so late in October because the likelihood of encountering a winter storm increases every day as we progress into winter with the north pacific high pressure zone slowly disintegrating and allowing the storms to blow directly into Vancouver Island.

Our objective with the shakedown cruise is to circumnavigate Vancouver Island - 1000 km staring at Port Hardy near the north end of the island. We will head south down the protected east coast of the island which will give us ample opportunity to get used to the boat, living conditions, pedaling conditions, switching positions without capsizing the boat, etc. It will also give Jordan and I an opportunity to slowly nose into more advanced ocean conditions as weather permits to feel out general stability in waves and wind as well as how effected we are by high winds.

We are planning on stopping off in Victoria for a couple of rest days, some media interviews, wait for a good weather window, then tackle the exposed wild west coast. The reason we have chosen a clockwise direction is that prevailing winds starting about mid October tend to veer from Southerly to Northerly and it would be better to have the wind at our stern as we make our way up the west coast.


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Paint color ideas

Please weigh-in on your choice of paint color:

Choice #1: Viper Bright Orange Pearl

Choice #2: Crayola Crayon Skin Color

We liked the skin color idea so much, that we just went ahead and painted her skin color. Yes, this is an attempt at being funny. The photo above is just the beige colored epoxy micro coating prior to sanding and finishing.

New name for WiTHiN ?

I originally called the prototype boat WiTHiN because I believe that human power is our power from within - and since a human is powering the boat from inside, the boat is also being power from within. I even designed a nice friendly logo to match the curvy prototype boat:



But now, I think maybe the new expedition boat needs a name of it's own. A name and logo that fits better with our awesome, edgy, stealthy new design. I'm just not feeling WiTHIN anymore and I'm open to exploring something new. Some people commented at the lake trials last week that she looks like a bad-ass barracuda or a shark. I played around in Illustrator today with some logo ideas using the Barracuda name and I drew a sort of cartoony Barracuda. Let me know what you think or if you have any ideas for a new name.

In other news, Ken and I are making are way through a long final list of things to finish to get 'her' ready for the second lake trials, and my Vancouver Island circumnavigation with Jordan Hanssen. One of those steps was reinforcing a loop on the bow for an anchor and sea anchor. We wanted to make sure that it was good a strong and we don't have access to the inside anymore, so we used a beefy stainless loop embedded in micro fibers and covered with fanned out uni-directional carbon in the direction most of the force is likely to come from.



There is a bit of carbon tape on the inside, electrical, body work, paint, and installation of equipment / electronics. All in 2 weeks - can Ken do it?

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Lake Trials VIDEO!

I just finished posting a new YouTube video of the very first lake trials. Enjoy:

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Lake trials!

WiTHiN hits the water for the first time!



No surprises at the lake today which is good news! Loading into the water was a snap - good thing I made the 8' tongue extender. It worked perfectly and WiTHiN slid off the bunks into the water. The drive to the reservoir was a bit bouncy. The trailer might need some reinforcement, but otherwise it went well.



She was very stable. It doesn't rock much at all and forcing my weight right to left inside doesn't produce very much noticeable rolling motion. Sitting and standing also doesn't really tip it much, but, as Rick warned, once my weight is very high (sitting on the roof, or standing up), and I lean over it to a certain point, it will suddenly continue it's roll and tip right over. If the side windows (port lights) are open, then the cockpit will flood. This is without any ballast at all aside from the keel bulb which weighs 60 lbs.



With 200 or 300 lbs inside and on the floor, the amount of effort needed to roll it is significantly more. One test that needs to be done during the next lake trials at the end of September is to actually roll it onto it's side and allow the cockpit to flood (with the inside hatches to the cabin and bow storage compartment CLOSED). I will fall off the roof into the water, then make my way back inside the flooded cockpit and manually pump the water out. The other test that we will do is to capsize it with all of the hatches and ports closed and sealed.



WiTHiN feels VERY roomy with excellent visibility to the outside world. I had to make an adjustment to the seat height to get the horizon into the middle of the port lights, but after that I could see all around me no problem. With the ports open, I had a nice cooling breeze blowing through. The drive leg by MitrPak is SUPER SMOOTH and solid as a rock. 80 rpm felt like about 150 watts as per design. Resulting speed was 7.6 km / hr. (4.1 knots) Rick's prediction was 8.2 km / hr, but I am sure that was based on mirror flat water conditions. It was windy and a bit wavy, so .75'ish km / hr slower is probably about right on. Ken and I raced sailboats and beat all of them. I reached a top speed of 10.3 km / hr (5.3 knots)






WiTHiN turns on a dime like the prototype did with a nice roll into the turn followed by a slight roll to the opposite side, then leveling out. The rudder controls were easy to operate with one hand, and the rudder is nicely balanced, as I could take my hand off the lever during a turn and the rudder would stay exactly where it was set. Winds were 15 to km / hr and inside the protected cockpit, I didn't even notice the wind aside from a slight lean to the side. It will be interesting to get WiTHiN into some real wind. My speed going into the wind didn't seem much different than the speed with the wind (but I don't have a watts meter, so that is a bit subjective).





We took the all of the kids for a ride - they sat in the cabin with the hatch open. I can see how a trip could work with two people - one sitting comfortably in the cabin with the other peddling. I had 2 passengers sitting in the cabin weighing a total of 230 lbs and I couldn't notice any speed difference at all (again, no watts meter, so hard to measure). I took Helen for a ride and we switched positions easily without incident and without raising our center of gravity at all. I crouched on the floor near the drive leg and she got out of the cabin and into the recumbent seat. Then she moved to the side and I moved back into the cabin.



Loading WiTHiN back onto the trailer was relatively easy. The only trick was aligning her while pedaling backwards while being blown to the side. We eventually used a rope to walk her down the dock while I pedaled backwards. Cyrille was standing on the trailer and guided WiTHiN onto the bunks. When she was aligned and partially on the bunks, I hopped out, hooked the winch strap onto the rudder tube, and we easily cranked WiTHiN all the way up and onto the bunks. I think this is all a 2 man job - possibly even 1 man with some practice.



I had my Spidertracks satellite tracking unit running the whole time and it worked great:
http://www.pedaltheocean.com/follow-greg.php

When Ken and I got back to the house, we got a couple of bathroom scales out and weighed WITHiN:

Boat with hatches & port lights = 341 lbs
Keel bulb = 62 lbs
Keel post = 18 lbs
Drive leg = 24 lbs
Battery = 40 lbs
Rudder = 10 lbs
Greg = 156 lbs
----------------------------
Total testing weight = 651 lbs
Total boat weight without crew or any equipment = 455 lbs



Ken and I have a lot of work to do between now and the next lake trials at the end of September where we will do the capsize and flood tests: Cabin top carbon tape finished, body work and paint (anti-foul on the hull), solar panels on, electrical, light mast, antennas, cleats, keel and drive leg fairing, seat installed, gear nets, hatches and ports sealed, trailer beefed up a bit, sponsor decals, adjustable seat mount...


Then it's sea trials at the beginning of October on Vancouver Island with my new friend ocean rower Jordan Hanssen. Jordan and I are planning a sort of testing/learning/experience gaining expedition - details coming soon.

Next for me is the Lost Sole ultra marathon on Friday! YIKES!!! It's my last chance this year to actually complete a 100 mile ultramarathon. Wish me luck.



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Ready for the water!



Hatches & port lights on, not painted yet, no electronics, no equipment - still TONS to do, but she is ready to see water for the first time!



This is a view from inside the cockpit facing the stern. You can see the cabin hatch which is open to the side (like a door). This position allows me to sit in a variety of positions - on the seat back storage bin hatch (white hatch cover) with my legs in the cabin and head out the cabin top hatch, or facing the other way. It also allows me to easily crawl into the cabin.



The Lewmar port lights are mounted temporarily for the lake test. I wanted to get a feel for visibility through them, fresh air, operation, etc. So far, it feel really good - very comfortable and functional. I have a really great view all around me.


The is a shot from yesterday - vacuum bagging the cabin top onto the hull

Here is Manny's amazing work. Yes the keel bulb is on backwards - a small error which we will fix next week.

Manny's propeller designed by Rick Willoughby


Keel bulb


Inside the cockpit facing forward. We have not yet finished the carbon seems as you can see by the openings at the front port light.


The pilot hatch




Drive leg & prop slides into a tapered hole in the hull.

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Lake test on SUNDAY!


I cannot believe that we will actually be ready for the very first lake trials on Sunday!



By looking at these shots taken today, you might not believe it either, but we are much closer to finishing than it might appear. There won't be any paint on WiTHiN, or electronics or equipment aside from the pedals, propeller, keel, seat, rudder, portlights and hatches, but she will be water worthy!

The objective with the first initial test will be primarily to measure actual speed compared to design speed, and feel out the general stability. Rick Willoughby designed the hull of WiTHiN, and the prop for 78 rpm at the pedals which produces 150 watts of power and should create about 8 km per hour of speed on a flat calm lake on a windless day. Since I can't install my SRM power meter onto the gear box based drive leg, I measured my heart rate at 150 watts & 80 rpm today on my trainer.

On the lake on Sunday, I'll want to confirm that a cadence of 80 rpm should produce about 8 km / hour of speed and result in about 105 beats per minute in the engine.

We have tomorrow and Friday to get the cabin top on, install the propeller, fill the drive leg with oil, fit the keel bulb on, place my recumbent seat in position, and install all of the ports and hatches,

Check out the new Follow Greg page at the new site! Our new Spidertracks satellite tracking device is now running with live updates on the map! I'll be running it on Sunday during the lake trials, so if you can't make it down to Glenmore reservoir, you can watch all the action live on the web site! (well.. by "live action" I mean watching a little green dot move around a digital satellite image of Glenmore Reservoir on a Google map along with the occasional Twitter update - still exciting. Kind of).

http://www.pedaltheocean.com/follow-greg.php

Here are some pics of today's progress:

The hole of the left is for the keel post - hole on the right is for the drive leg tapered plug



This is the drive leg with the tapered plug. The plug is made of Chockfast epoxy chocking compound and was poured into the drive leg bay with the drive leg in position. This stuff is like rock when it cures - amazing

This is a view down the drive leg bay in the torque tube. That's me down there. The threaded end of the keel post fits through the hole on the left and it secured with a nut. Stuart designed this "torque tube" box to transfer the forces from the keel into the hull and bulkheads of the boat. You have no idea what it took to build the torque tube. I would say probably 10 to 15 man-days. The keel tube would probably bend (and it's 1.25" square solid stainless steel!) before anything broke in the hull. If that happened, the keel could be dropped out by simply removing the retaining nut.



This is a view of the upside down hull showing the drive leg without the lower gear box and prop. Note the thin line around the drive leg tube. That is how tightly Ken made the drive leg plug fit into the hull bottom. After body work and paint, you probably won't even see it. The square hole on the left is for the keel tube

The cabin top


Sanding blocks for body work on the hull


Rudder tube hole

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62% chance of success

I've been trying to figure out how to mount the VHF radio antenna, my AIS antenna, GPS antenna, Navigation light, radar reflector. that's a lot of stuff up high which is not great for windage and offsets what we are trying to accomplish with the keel bulb which is required for stability. So, I posted a question to the OceanRowers.com forum and got some helpful advice from that group.


At OARS, I noticed a sobering post by the site administrator titled "Incomplete Rows in 2009" There were short descriptions of SEVENTEEN incompleted expeditions so far in 2009. Yikes!

I checked the Ocean Rowing Society statistics page and saw that in all-time, there have been 405 attempts to cross an ocean by human power (for the most part, that has been by rowing - but we plan on changing that :-)) and 156 of those attempts were incomplete - that's a whopping 38% failure rate! Over 1 in 3 attempts end up in failure, and of those, 6 were lost at sea.

From the OARS forum, below is the list of incomplete ocean rows for 2009 and reasons for their failures (updated July 28th, 2009). This is IMPORTANT stuff and I think that anyone considering a human powered ocean crossing should take all of this to heart and plan accordingly. In the years that I have been following ocean rows, I have found the same issues responsible for prematurely ending an expedition - time and time again. I'll summarize those issues after this list, and go over some of the steps that I can take to mitigate those risks:

JOHN MOLLINSON - SOLO, NORTH ATLANTIC W-E.
On 28 July 2009 John Maher sent a message to the members of Shepherd Purple Heart Ocean Row - Subject: End of the road

"It is with regret that I confirm that Molly's quest has been ended. In dense fog, in the deep of the night and rough seas, all communications were lost with no way to generate power due to technical malfunctions. This left us in a suicidal situation to think about continuing as the boat could not be seen and with no communications a decision was made between the team, the Falmouth and Canadian coastguards to start a rescue mission with the aid of an oil rig support vessel. With the use of their radars Molly was located and made safe. He is in the process of being returned to dry land complete with boat and a further update will follow in due course. To confirm both Molly and boat are now safe."

SIMON PRIOR - SOLO (INDIAN OCEAN ROWING RACE)
www.amantomauritius.co.uk
13 Jun 2009 - statement from Simon Prior on his decision to retire from the race
"Here I am onboard the race support vessel and I’m most grateful for the kindness, warmth and empathy that the crew have shown to me upon collecting me from my rowing boat, Old Mutual Endurance. The last 54 days have been, if anything, an amazing experience with highs and lows in equal measures. Very sadly I have fallen short of the target that I set myself and I’m distraught that Mauritius never came into view.
The whole project of rowing an ocean is an enormous undertaking; physically, mentally, financially and logistically. I have learnt so much about every aspect of myself and of the seas.
The oceans are vast, phenomenal places, offering the most peaceful solitude and the most humbling of extreme seas. The ongoing issues with my watermaker and rudder lines sealed my fate. The watermaker continually failed and all storage and drinking containers became contaminated with mould, impairing my already weakened body. The rudder lines also continued to cause issues and in hindsight were never strong enough for the forces upon them.
The rudder lines broke four times in total and without sufficient spare rope to replace the lines, I was unable to steer the boat adequately. With these issues ongoing, I was finding myself sadly repairing items 3-4 hours everyday and with the days already ticking by my spirit was finally broken".

CHARLIE GIRARD - SOLO NORTH ATLANTIC W-E
www.atlantique2009.com
On May 29th Charlie called the US coast guard for a rescue, activating his EPIRB to guide them to his position. He was 10 days into his row and in seas of 5-7ft and 15knot winds. His boat was left adrift and has subsequently been recovered. This was Charlie's second unsuccessful attempt to row the North Atlantic solo after calling in a rescue 50miles out to sea in 2007.
Watch a local news reports on the rescue:
http://wbztv.com/video/?id=77179@wbz.dayport.com
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CRfWL0gAbPE

DOING TIME - PAIR (INDIAN OCEAN ROWING RACE)
www.bigboysrow.com
Retired after pintles holding the rudder to their boat broke and they lost their para-anchor. Their boat has been cast adrift but will continue to be tracked by the Race Office while all possible options to salvage the boat are considered.

DREAM IT DO IT - PAIR (INDIAN OCEAN ROWING RACE)
www.indianoceanrace2009.com/racediary.html
From the Indian Ocean Rowing Race 2009 news page:
Following the retirement and recovery of Boat 2 'Dream it Do it’ to the Abrolhos Islands Roger and Tom were flown to Geraldton so that Roger could seek medical examination and assistance from Geraldton Hospital. Examination confirmed the original on-board diagnosis that Roger had indeed cracked a couple of ribs.

HOPPIOLA - SOLO (INDIAN OCEAN ROWING RACE)
www.hoppipolla1.blogspot.com
From the Indian Ocean Rowing Race 2009 news page:
Throughout Monday 20th April, the progress of boat 8 had been monitored, and in consideration with the forecast wind strength and direction there was concern for the safety of Hoppipolla. The Support Vessel was directed to Hoppipolla’s position and at 09:00GMT (17:00 WA time) Mick Moran, requested assistance. Mick had been experiencing problems with his steering system and centre board and had been finding it impossible to row in the desired direction. The Support Vessel took Hoppipolla under tow and returned to the Batavia Marina.

WHATEVER IT TAKES - FOUR (INDIAN OCEAN ROWING RACE)
www.crossingtheindian.com
From blog dated 26th April
“Whatever It Takes” discovered water leaking into their aft cabin through the hull bilge pump. As the dark of night was approaching, Go West worked furiously to stop the leak. Dave donned a survival suit and jumped overboard armed with a screwdriver. He spent about an hour in 4 meter seas working on the problem. After an excruciating time he had successfully screwed the housing in properly (one screw was 10mm proud of the housing). The leak had only reduced by about 50% so he attempted to stem the leak with waterproof ‘putty’. It was a valiant effort, but to no avail. The Australian Maritime College “Whatever it Takes” had a terminal leak, the stern cabin and lockers had taken on around 150 litres of water.
After calling in a resuce the team was safely towed ashore.

BERTRAND DE GAULLIER - SOLO (BOUVET RAMES GUYANE) - Translated from French
Communique de Bouvet Rames Guyane 29.04.09
Bertrand de Gaullier, which had capsized Monday and triggered two beacons, waited to be rescued for 36 hours. An expectation of the more painful it was quickly realized that two tags were no longer on board and it would be very difficult to find relief. But Bertrand has never lost his composure and followed the procedure of recovery in professional sea despite his injured right arm which made him suffer for many weeks. It is true that the Captain and Commander of the base of the marines and commandos Lorient, Bertrand de Gaullier des Bordes has always been accustomed to exercise extreme and dangerous situations.
http://www.bouvet-ramesguyane.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=1087&Itemid=139

REMY ALNET - SOLO (BOUVET RAMES GUYANE) - Translated from French
Testimony of Remy 18.04.09
"I was in the cockpit and I wanted to put the music louder. I was opening the panel of my car when a wave larger than the other has completely flooded the interior. The boat was unbalanced and quickly capsized. I wanted to run the pumping system, but it did not work. I have plunged more than ten times, unfortunately without success. I'm back on the hull of my boat but I was getting cold and lose strength ... I knew I had to tinker a place of retreat since the arches for that purpose had been broken at the outset, I then had the idea of crossing the oars on each side of the boat and then to pass ropes between these two extremes, I thus made a sort of ring. Then it plunges back that I had to recover my survival suit and food to consider an expectation that I knew I could be long. I imagined that we were looking for me and I kept hoping but it was very hard because the waves me destabilization and a little balance in my shell, I often fell into the water. I can say that I swallowed seawater overnight. But I clung to my oars, I do not let go. I had more strength, and I finally cling to the oars. In addition, the boat sank, he was only 50 cm above the water ... The night was interminable. When, at daybreak, I saw the freighter that was 300 yards away, I went back under the water for my rockets. I waited until the last moment to recover because I knew I had to drown the cabinet and then the boat would sink a little more. I've touvées and got back on the boat. I had three, the first one did not work, the second not only at the third that it worked. The crew of the Astro Chloe saw me and took me retrieved using a basket. They tried to save my boat but it did not work. "
Currently aboard the Super Tanker "Astro Chloe, Remy Alnet will be landed on a boat patrol in Brazil to be deposited in Cayenne. "I do not have my papers, I lost everything and it is preferable that I landed on French soil," explained the skipper.
Hear the testimony of Remy Alnet
http://www.bouvet-ramesguyane.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=982&Itemid=139

PATRICIA LEMOINE - SOLO (BOUVET RAMES GUYANE) - translated from French
Communicates Bouvet Rames Guyane 11.04.09
If the conditions of wind and current remain the leading men of the Bouvet Rames Guyane Cayenne should see during the weekend, thus crossing the Atlantic to train in six weeks. At the other end of the water, things get complicated for most skippers and South, although it dragged on the shores of the Black Pot, Patricia Lemoine throws in the towel and announced it abandoned.

OLIVER HICKS - SOLO CIRCUMNAVIGATION
www.virginglobalrow.com
Olly's departed Tasmania, Australia on 23rd January and began an attempt to row around Antarctica and become the first person to complete a circumnavigation of the globe without touching land. Olly decided to suspend his how at New Zealand. Olly managed to get within 12nm of the coast before being pushed back out to sea so was forced to call in a tow and was picked up at 25nm from land (in 40kn winds and a 4m swell) and he and his boat were safely bought ashore. Olly gives his reasons for suspending the row in his blog dated 10th April:
...our mileage made good is miserable and would works out if I was to carry on regardless in completion of the end goal in about 5 years..... In large this poor progress is down to problems with the boat. She does not like to go downwind of her own accord or indeed once the wind gets above 20knots not even under oars. Since the average wind speeds in the Southern Ocean are 20-30kts this is obviously something of a problem. The boat is also incredibly heavy about 2 tonnes and on a calm day I can make only about 1.4kts average which is v slow. We had anticipated making about 1000nm a month as per my Atlantic boat but evidently this has not been borne out. Another fact taken into consideration was that this is the worst year on record for drift ice coming out of the Ross sea. With Icebergs over 5km long reported in the region.

VICTOR MOONEY - SOLO ATLANTIC (SENEGAL TO NEW YORK)
www.goreechallenge.com
On 15th April Victor's team announced that his desalinator had stopped working and that he would be abandoning his row. He was rescued by a nearby fishing vessel. His boat was lost after the line towing it behind the fishing vessel broke. The following day he posted this blog:
Thanks to the US Embassy in Dakar, Senegal, Governments of Senegal, Spain, France and the NGO New Future Foundation of Senegal. I am very well. The line that was towing the Spirit of Zayed was broken during rough seas. The authorities are attempting to locate and retrieve the vessel.

ERDEN ERUC – SOLO CIRCUMNAVIGATION
www.around-n-over.org
Erden has decided to come in to land in the North of New Guinea and continue his circumnavigation (by ocean rowing boat across the oceans and by bike across the continents via the highest mountain on each of the 6 'mainland' continents) later in the year. He will be walking across New Guinea from September, then kayaking to a suitable island from which to continue rowing to mainland Australia. Then it's back on the bike via Mt Kosciusko aiming to reach Western Australia by April 2010 to set off on the indian ocean leg of his journey.

EDDY LESAGE – SOLO ATLANTIC E-W
www.eddylesage.fr
Blog updated by Eddy's support team 21st January
17/01 Watermaker stopped working
18/01 Eddy unable to repair watermaker whilst at sea. Whats more he has hurt his right thigh (torn muscle or spasms?). Added to that the batteries haven't been charging properly.
19/01 In the evening Eddy accepted help offered to him by a safety organisation, to take him back to the island of El Hiero, where he was taken to hospital, a normal procedure in cases like this.
20/01 Eddy left the hospital and unfortunately had to record the damage caused to Martha Dos while she was being towed.
21/01 Eddy has made an inventory of the contents of the boat and is keeping us informed as to how he wants to proceed.

LA MONDIALE - ATLANTIC E-W (CREW OF 14)
www.oceanrowevents.com
Press release dated 15th January
Falmouth Maritime and Rescue Coordination Centre are currently coordinating the search and rescue of ‘La Mondiale’ the British ocean rowboat and its 14 crew. ‘La Mondiale’ is attempting to break the current record by rowing from Gran Canaria to Barbados, with the overall intention of raising £1 million for charitable causes. The Coastguard received a call this morning at 10.21am informing them that the rowboat had lost its rudder after hitting a submerged object 280 miles North West of Cape Verde, a temporary rudder had been rigged up but had now failed them. Martin Bidmead, Watch Manager, Falmouth Maritime and Rescue Coordiantion Centre, said:“We have been able to talk to the crew which consists of several nationalities: British, Scottish, Irish, Canadian and Faroese. They are all safe and well, they are not in a situation of distress only the boat is disabled. But the weather conditions on scene for the next few days will not allow them to make the repairs to the rudder. A Bulk Carrier ‘Island Ranger’ on passage from Brazil to Italy is currently making its way to the rowboat and is expected on scene at 8:00pm to offer assistance.”

ALDO DIANA & KEN MAYNARD - PAIR ATLANTIC E-W
www.atlanticfirefighter.com
Aldo and Ken were headed for the Cape Verdes to make repairs to their electrics which had failed leaving them with limited communication and safety equipment.
From blog dated 6th January
Once again the weather had taken a turn for the worst and we were unable to row. Late Tuesday afternoon we were both in the cabin, feeling rather bored and frustrated when just by chance Ken looked out to see a huge cargo vessel heading straight for us, only hundreds of yards away. Immediately we sprang into action and set off the flares to raise the alarm. The first flare didn't work but luckily the second one did and fortunately the Turkish crew of the big vessel spotted us just in time to change it's direction and a major collision was (at first) avoided. Unfortunately the day finished catastrophically for RITA. During the events that ensued poor RITA got wrecked and we boarded the cargo vessel to be taken ashore to Cape Verde. We are devastated but thank God we are alive.

LEO ROSETTE - SOLO ATLANTIC E-W
www.woodvale-challenge.com/Leo+Rosette+Progress
Announcement on tracking website dated 3rd January
Unfortunately following severe sea sickness, and a suspected stomach ulcer, Leo Rosette has been forced to return to La Gomera just days into his Atlantic crossing. Leo is now safely back on land and being treated at the local hospital in San Sebastian de la Gomera and hopes to restart his adventure once he has been cleared to do so by medical staff. Woodvale Challenge would like to thank everyone who played a part in recovering Leo and his boat Halcyon.

Here is a ranked list of reasons for failure:

3 x watermaker failures
3 x rudder + 1 broken by hitting submerged object
2 x capsize flood + 1 flood caused by bilge pump leak
2 x power system failures
2 x psychological issues
1 injury + 1 severe sea sickness
1 inadequate boat performance

1. Watermaker - Time and time again I have read about this problem. To me, it seems like 1 out of every 2 ocean rowing expeditions has problems with the electric desalinator. Sometimes the unit is repaired at sea, and sometimes a smaller manual backup unit is used. In the case of the Woodvale ocean rowing race, they are required to take fresh water as ballast. In an emergency, the rowers are allowed to drink this water, but doing so disqualifies the rower(s) from the race.

At the very least, I need to become very familiar with the operation and servicing of my Katadyn 40E electric desalinator before I depart. I should be able to take it apart and put it back together again. To minimize the possibility that the power supply is causing the problem, I think it would be wise to have two redundant power sources / batteries and the ability to easily switch between the two. I also need to have a good spare parts kit. My back-up matermaker is the Katadyn Surviver 06 manual desalinator. To resort to using this would be a pain - literally because it takes an average of 2 hours of pumping per day to make one day's worth of fresh drinking and cooking water. We are thinking about making a pedal powered mechanism to operate this which would make it much easier to use. I won't have any fresh water back-up onboard because I won't have the room.

2. Rudder - I think we have a pretty beefy rudder and steering system. The rudder is operated by a heavy-duty push-pull cable designed to be used on large sailing yachts and power boats. If something did break on the cable, I can disconnect the push-pull cable, and rig up an emergency steering line system with a pulley and take control over the rudder. If something were to happen to the rudder itself - like striking a submerged object and breaking, then I may have to remove it which would be a simple operation of just removing a clamp and a pin. I think it might be worth bringing a light weight, simple spare rudder along.

3. Capsize floods - This is the scary one. In recent history there have been 2 deaths and capsizing has been the primary cause of both of them. In February, 2007, Australian Andrew McCauley attempted to become the first person to cross the Tasman sea by kayak. After 30 days and nights
in a slightly modified off-the-shelf kayak only about 75 km away from his destination of New Zealand, Andrew went missing. The next day they found his upturned kayak. It is speculated that Andrew capsized in choppy seas and got separated from his boat. The winds were strong that day, and they would have blown his kayak away from him very quickly. The lesson applied here for me is to always wear a safety tether when in the cockpit with the hatches open. It would be possible to be tossed out of WiTHiN by a rouge wave and partial capsize wile standing up through the top hatch. A tether would at least keep me close to the boat where I could climb back aboard.

The second death was 62 year old Nenad Belic who was rowing his home built ocean rowing boat across the North Atlantic from Cape Cod to Ireland in May of 2001. He went missing after about 4 1/2 months. His boat was found upside down fully flooded 230 miles west of Ireland. This case is a bit puzzling. I have searched for more information and can't seem to find any. I did find a drawing of his row boat, and to me, it didn't seem to have any separate water tight compartments. I would think that if it capsized with a hatch or portlight open, it would totally flood, and possibly not right itself. Evidently, this is what happened to Nenad.

If WiTHiN were to capsize with all of the portlights and hatches in the cockpit open, but with the hatches for the cabin and bow storage compartments closed, then the cockpit would flood - but, she would right herself due to the keel, and the cockpit could be bailed out. I'll have an electric bilge pump in the cockpit to help with the bail out. The rule will be that the inside hatches for the cabin and the bow storage compartment must be kept closed if any of the portlights or hatches are open in the main cockpit. Also, I must wear a tether if there is any possibility of capsizing with the cockpit hatches and ports open.

4. Power system failures - There could be a number of reasons for this. If the system is strictly solar powered, then a few days of very cloudy or foggy weather could exhaust the batteries. There could be faulty wiring, broken fuses, or malfunctioning electronic equipment. I will have 2 separate sources of power - solar panels and a wind generator. I think it might be smart to have each of them charge a different battery, and then split the electronics between the two batteries with the option to be able to switch power sources. I should also easily be able to power something directly from either the wind generator or solar panels and bypass the batteries and charge controller.

5. Psychological issues - there is only one way to avoid this: TRAINING. I must expose myself to the ocean environment to adjust to that environment.

6. Injury and sea sickness - I have experienced sea sickness and it's NOT fun. I know that typically after 2 or 3 days your body will get used to it and I think that possibly medication could be the bridge that takes me to the third day. As for injury - I will take a very thorough medical kit.

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A bit stressed

There comes a time in every project where I am teetering between feeling like everything is totally out of control and very near complete disaster, and feeling the excitement of being so close to completing a significant benchmark. I'm there right now. And I'm also being a bit dramatic. Things are nowhere near 'crazy out of control', but there are SOOO many items going through my brain, that I'm having problems turning all the thoughts off for sleep.



The reason for the stress is because I have made a decision on a really cool intermediate challenge and I am going to make that announcement at the end of August. For now, know that a., it is VERY cool (like I already said), and b., involves partnering with an accomplished ocean rower, and c., it will be a record attempt (of course - right?) that we think we can totally kill. Because of schedule and weather issues, we have to depart close to October 1st, and that is only about 6 1/2 weeks away and I have SOOO many things to get finished before then! Add to this stress mixture the fact that I am on vacation for over 2 weeks between now and then, + the 100 mile ultramarathon in Lethbridge on September 11th which I am still training for, and trying to maintain my cycling training for this upcoming record attempt.

Here is a list of some of the stuff that needs to happen between now and then. If you thing you are able to assist in any way, please let me know.
  • Torque tube box in the hull finished and keel and drive leg installed and working. We received the completed keel post and drive leg from my buddy and Pedaltheocean sponsor Manny at Rohmec.com and it looks pretty good. Very beefy for sure. The drive leg gear boxes were manufactured and customized for me by MitrPak.

  • Rudder controls finished and working. We are 95% there now due to Kens EXCELLENT fabrication. We are using a single marine rated push-pull cable routed through the hull and under the arm rest to a lever on top of the arm rest in the cockpit - very slick and VERY SMOOTH action. For the ocean crossing I will install an auto steer servo slaved to the GPS.


    The rudder tube is from Adam at Carbonfibertubeshop.com - another Pedaltheocean sponsor. Carbon Fiber Tube Shop makes the best carbon tubes with a huge selection of sizes - definitely better than making them in the shop.

  • This is a clamp with a steering horn for the rudder that I welded up

    Some more weldments for the armrest steering lever

  • Hatches and Port lights installed. The two inside hatches have been semi attached. The others need to happen during body work to properly fair-in the leveled surfaces to fit the hatches and ports.

  • Join the cabin top to the hull. We need to finish the torque tube first. This is a box built-into the floor that will transmit forces from the keel into the bulheads then into the hull. This is also where the drive leg (pedals and prop) inserts into.

  • Install electronics. For this record attempt, we are going to go with a simplified electronics package. A navigation light, tracking device from our new sponsor SpiderTracks - check it out. Very cool! A few solar panels, and hand-held portable electronics with a manually operated water desalinator.

  • Trailer. I have purchased a boat trailer and I'm 50% of the way through making the modifications required to lift WiTHiN about 3 feet up off the bunks to clear the keel.



  • Body work - Ken has covered the bottom hull with micro and needs to sand it smooth, then apply anti-foul paint. He needs to do the same with the cabin top.


    I have been thinking about neon green for a paint color.
    The 80's neon colors are really making a come-back.
    It's sort of reminiscent of the old 1960's muscle car, and I think a thick
    black racing strip would really punch the 'muscle yacht' message home.
    WiTHiN needs to be Outside magazine / Popular Science magazine cover shot worthy!






  • Dozens of smaller items like installing some cargo nets, installing the recumbent seat, a battery holder, a mast to raise the LED nav light, install cleats, etc, etc

  • Buy, acquire, find, make, invent items on my ever-growing list of supplies that we will require for the record attempt expedition.

  • Food - Pack 20 days worth of food.

  • Sea anchor - I need to get the sea anchor lines figured out. Below is a photo of my sea anchor on loan from my buddy and hero Jason Lewis from expedition360.com. I am honored to be using this anchor because Jason used it on pedal boat Moksha on his world-first circumnavigation of the planet by human power.

  • According to some information I found on the ocean rowing web sites,
    this seems to be the standard configuration for a small boat. The sea anchor is used
    to help keep the bow (or stern) pointed into bad weather, and to stop being blown off course by strong winds.



  • Web site - Get the new web site up and live before the end of August. The new site is being designed by Julia Lauer and Stephen Capp with snappy copy writing by Chris Keam. It's at that point when I will announce the record attempt expedition, the new charity, etc.



  • Plan two media days - one in Calgary at the end of September at Glenmore res just before we embark on our record attempt expedition, and one in the city where we will be launching from. The purpose of the media events is to promote the new charity, the record attempt and of course, PedalTheOean Pacific crossing in June.
The calendar and schedule is as follows:
  • End of August:
    1. get WiTHiN into a lake for initial testing.
    2. roll the new web site out
    3. announce the charity and initiative
    4. Announce the intermediate project record attempt expedition

  • End of September:
    1. Have WiTHiN expedition ready
    2. Media / press event in Calgary
    3. Media / press event in departure city

  • Beginning of October (10 to 20 days):
    1. RECORD ATTEMPT EXPEDITION!

  • Winter 2010:
    1. Get WiTHiN ready for the Pacific crossing
    2. Do some training trips on the west coast

  • June 2010:
    1. Depart from Victoria, BC - destination HAWAII!!

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Be careful what you wish for



The photo above is from July 4 (almost 4 weeks ago) near Frank slide shortly after the start of a VERY long trail race - the 147 km Sinister 7 ultramarathon. My first attempt at running this distance resulted in having to drop out after about 19 hours and 120 km with severe blisters.



It has been a long time goal of mine to someday run 100 miles and I decided that I was going to go for it this summer. I started with a 50 mile race in Bellingham Washington and had an amazing race despite running off course and extending my run by about 90 minutes.

After that race, I felt I was ready to continue on, and registered for the almost-100 miler Sinister 7. Since that ended prematurely, I was possibly looking at a 100mileless summer. Once you start these races, you might as well keep going because you can use each ultra as a training stage for the next one. I immediately started looking for another ultramarathon and found the only one that fit our summer travel schedule - the Lost Soul Ultramarathon which is on September 11th and is a full 100 mile race. Of course, the race was full, so closed to new entries. So, I made the decision to give up the quest for this year and possibly go after it again after my Pacific ocean crossing next summer and started focusing on cycling training to get ready for the 2-man test-expedition in October. (South down the Pacific ocean from Vancouver Island to California).

Of course, I got the phone call this morning that my name which was on the Lost Soul ultra waiting list was accepted, so it looks like I'm running the Lost Soul!

I'd better start running again!!! 100 miles is a freaking LONG way to run. I'll hit it hard again this weekend in Whitefish on Big Mountain.

In other news, I wanted to show you some photos of the Kens awesome work on the crush zones for WiTHiN. The crush zones are the tips of the bow and stern that are solid foam and covered with carbon. The purpose is if I run into a log, dock or whatever, I will damage this section and not risk de-laminating the carbon from the sides of the hull or risk breaching the far bow and stern compartments.



The bow is completely wrapped in carbon BEFORE this additional foam tip is bonded on. The foam tip will also be covered in carbon. If the tip were to smash into something, then it would be crushed and cracked and (hopefully) leave the main hull intact. ie: any delaminating of the composite layer would be limited to the crush zone.






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Crawling through hatches


me in the bow storage compartment turned guest room

I had a great idea the other day while on a hike up Big Mountain. It occurred to me that WiTHiN is easily big enough to hold TWO people - one could sit in the cockpit and pedal while the other relaxes in the cabin spotting traffic or sleeping. The duo could switch off every 4 hours or so. If the weather ever got bad enough to have to sit it out on sea anchor, then there is plenty of room in the bow storage compartment for a sleeping bunk. Jason Lewis's pedal boat Moksha was very similar to WiTHiN, but slightly larger. He went around the world in Moksha and much of the time there were 2 people in the boat sharing the pedalling duties.


it is even possible to do a 180 in there - a bit tight, but it can be done.

I'm not suggesting that Pedaltheocean become a two-man expedition to cross the Pacific, but I am thinking that this could be a really great way for me to gain experience with the help of someone else with experience and who knows his way around ocean human powering.


This is a view from the cockpit seat into the bow storage compartment. The round hatch in the bulkhead is about 6.5 feet away.

So, what I am thinking of doing is to plan a mini-expedition from Victoria BC (or somewhere in the Pacific North West), south down the west coast of the US to San Fransisco (or somewhere sufficiently far). This mini-pedaltheocean-expedition would be a 2-man effort. We could plan 2 to 3 day legs between safe harbors to wait-out any especially bad weather and sort of play it by ear as we make our way south. There are plenty of coastguard stations along the coast, and plenty of ports.



I think a 2 to 3 week trip like this is exactly what I need to find my sea legs and learn more about exactly what it is going to take to pedal my butt all the way across to Hawaii. I'm thinking sort of October'ish time-frame for this 'wet road trip'.

This is the rear sleeping cabin. The round storage hatch in the bulkhead
at the back is about 6.5 feet away


Ken and I had WiTHiN out on the driveway today, so I thought I would hop in to experience how 'roomy' the bow storage compartment is. We put a large hatch in the forward bulkhead to accommodate a person crawling in there, and there is more than enough room to stretch out and have a nap. For the ocean crossing, I will need to use this area to store my food and equipment, but for the 'wet road trip', I think we have plenty of room to store supplies elsewhere (far bow and far stern compartments, seat storage, nicks and crannies here and there) and reserve the bow compartment for a sleeping mat.


me facing forward looking through the hatch
There is also PLENTY of room in the sleeping cabin to either stretch out and sleep, or sit up and read, work on the computer or spot traffic out the portlights. When sitting up in the sleeping cabin, I could easily see 380 degrees around me (there will be a rear portlight window as well as two on each side. When facing forward, I can see through the glass hatch in the bulkhead). When my 'guest' is enjoying the ride back there, the hatch could be open for ventilation, communication and general socializing with the other passengers. (passenger).

me facing the stern looking through the rear portlight

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WiTHiN is off the stand


WiTHiN upside down on a new stand. The bleeder protective covering has now been removed from the hull bottom

As far as big jobs go for right now, all that is left is building the drive leg / keel bay, carbon taping the exterior seems, and joining the cabin top. Paint & body work, sealing in ports and hatches, and installing hardware, steering, electronics, etc all happens after paint and body work.

Since the WiTHiN designer Stuart Bloomfield has been swamped with other work lately and hasn't had time to complete the drawings for the drive leg bay (a square box that also acts as a torque tube and will hold the drive leg and the keel), we need to find other jobs to do, so we removed the hull from the jig stand and rolled it out onto the drive way to finish up the exterior carbon taping.


Ken is filling the gaps between panels on the hull with epoxy / micro


My daughter Krista shot this awesome photo at the Grand Canyon

We had a great vacation in Vegas with the kids. Helen and I aren't gamblers, but we love the shows and hotels right now are super cheap. We took the kids to see Jersey Boys, Cirq, Blue Man Group, Lion King and Phantom. We also took a day and hit the Grand Canyon. It was over 43 degrees C each day - ugh!


Me on the nocom lowracer sporting my new summer hair cut
After the Sinister 7 ultramarathon a few weeks ago where I dropped out at 120 km, I searched for another 100 miler for this fall that fit into our summer schedule, but the races that I found were either full or the dates didn't work. So, I have decided to hang up my running shoes for this season and dust off the cycling shoes and it my cycling training big. I want to do a big training / testing trip in WiTHiN in fall / winter, so I want to be physically ready for it.

Helen and I are going to cycle 100 km to Banff tomorrow for our anniversary, then back on Sunday. I'm taking the new NoCom with the old BOB trailer on the back. It's a funny image - that NoCom is probably one of the fastest bikes in the world and it will be hauling about 50 pounds of clothes and gear on an old trailer that has seen many great days of touring!

Nocom lowracer with a BOB trailer


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WiTHiN progress



I've been posting fewer blogs showing progress of the human powered expedition boat WiTHiN, not because we haven't been making progress, but the progress isn't visually as impressive as it once was when we were making the big parts. Now it's small things that take a lot of time. For example, it took a couple of weeks to prepare all of the hatch and port openings. Each hole that we cut out of the panel needed to be reinforced with 12 layers of unidirectional carbon wrapped around the opening then capped with a layer of bi - this is VERY time consuming, but it's required to properly distribute forces around the opening.

It took a few days to make the rudder tube (pictured below), and a week or so to tape all of the seat panels, etc, etc, etc... But - we are definitely getting there.

We are now basically ready to build the torque tube that will hold the keel. Once that is in, and the rudder is finished (mostly done - also pictured below), it's time to fix the cabin top to the hull, tape it all up and start body work. Then ports and hatches are installed, then all of my equipment - water maker, GPS, AIS receiver, radio, solar panels, wind generator, etc, etc. My good friend Manny from Rohmec Industries is involved again by offering to machine the prop, parts of the drive leg from MitrPak, and the keel.

I am really aiming for water testing by the end of August. My goal is to have WiTHiN ready for sea trials in September / October out in Tofino again and I am trying to come up with some sort of intermediate challenge that will serve as a really good test of the boat, equipment and systems and as well as provide me that more needed experience. Maybe a multi-day - straight out into the Pacific, out and back trip? I was thinking about circumnavigating Vancouver Island, but that would be 20 days or more and I'm not sure I can take that much time. If you have any ideas, let me have them.

Below are some random progress shots:

Cabin top showing the reinforcements for the port cutouts

Inside the cockpit with view through the forward hatch

Piles and piles of hatches and port lights from Glenn at MarinerParts.com


The cabin top
The stern with the rudder shell. A stainless steel rudder tube fits through two plastic bushings pressed into this shell.

This is the bottom side of the stern top deck cover. The rudder shell fits into this cup.

Here is the rudder. It is a stainless tube with steel sections forming the rudder profile, then covered with micro / epoxy. The micro needs to be sanded smooth and to the exact shape, then covered with carbon.

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The pedal drive is here

Here is a nifty little animation I whipped up showing the computer model of WiTHiN blending into the actual boat in my shop.



And the big news for the week is the drive leg is here! MitrPak built it and they did an awesome job! The 'T' gear box at the top has a Shimano crank axle which turns a stainless shaft which will run through a tube that connects to the lower 'L' gear box which will turn the prop. The entire drive shaft tube and gear boxes will be filled up with oil and the higher head pressure will keep the corrosive sea water out.

I am happy to say that Ben Eadie is back to help out with construction for a while. The above shot is Ken de-coring the portlight cutout edges. This slot is filled with an epoxy / micro-fiber mix and then covered with carbon.





The image above shows the seat panels now carbon taped into position. The round hatch below the arm rest is for dry storage.


The above illustration is a cut-away view of WiTHiN showing the cockpit, supplies, cabin and a new removable wind generator. My boat equipment guy Glenn Mulhare from Mariner Parts and I are having difficulty finding enough power with flexible solar panels to power all of the electronics, so we have decided to mount a removable wind generator for when the batteries need charging, and wind conditions are right. I can't leave this up all the time because it would cause far too much drag in head-wind conditions. However, if I am stopped for the night, and have a sea anchor out, I should be able to charge the batteries overnight as I sleep.

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My back yard

If you don't live here (Calgary), I am sorry and I don't mean to rub this in your face or anything, but check out the pictures from my Saturday training run with my buddy Bryon.


Bryon Howard and me at the 9100 feet summit of Mount Allen in Kananaskis
It has been a long-time goal of mine to complete an ultramarathon, and I am very happy that I was able to accomplish my goal 2 weeks ago by finishing the Northface endurance challenge 50 miler ultramarathon which was an amazing experience.

After the race, my knees were swollen, achillies tendons very sore, my quads were trashed and my toes are black and blue and I will lose 3 toe nails. A long, restful recovery is required and I am happy and satisfied that I have achieved my goal.

NOT!!!

Instead, I went and signed up for a 90 MILE (146 km) ultramarathon called the Sinister 7 in Crowsnest pass in 9 days from now! YA!!!! Bring it on!


me running (& lost) following an animal trail trail

The Sinister 7 solo race starts at 7:00 am on Saturday morning, July 4. The 146km course will take me through the most rugged, remote and beautiful terrain in Alberta's stunning Rocky Mountains. With over 5,050m (15,150 feet) of elevation gain across the course, this race will punish those who are not prepared.

The Sinister 7 is open to solo runners or teams of up to seven and racers have 27 hours to complete the grueling event. The course is split into seven stages, each featuring a geographic and historic highlight of the area. The race's name is inspired by the treacherous Seven Sisters Mountain that looms over much of the course.



my buddy Bryon sitting at the summit
I actually think I can leverage the Northface race and use it as a training stage for the Sinister - the two races are about 4 weeks apart. I spent the last 2 week in active recovery from Northface, and I felt like I could put in a really tough 2 day training weekend before tapering for the Sinister race. So, last weekend my buddy Bryon and I headed out to Kananaskis to fast hike / climb Mount Allan. Wow! What a hike. It was straight up for 2 hours to the 9000 foot summit. the views were breathtaking!


There was a bit of climbing, but not much, and not very technical
ON the way back down, we got off track and ended up on the other side of the wrong ridge and followed a mountain goat trail to a water fall where a heard of big horn sheep were crossing. That was a really incredible sight. We ended up making our way back over the ridge by following goat trails and eventually made it back to our hiking trail. It was a really cool day.

Then on Sunday I climbed Moose Mountain to the fire lookout station at the top. It took me 4.5 hours for the 30 km round trip and 8000 feet of elevation gain/lost. Now it's rest and recovery time and I feel ready to tackle the Sinister.

I was looking at the solo race results from last years Sinister, and the winner completed the race in a blazing 17 hours! the next finisher was almost 21 hours, then 22 hrs, 23 hrs and the remaining finishers were all over 24 hours. 50% of the starters were able to finish the race within the cut-off time of 27 hours. YIKES! I think my goal will be to just be able to finish this in less than 27 hours. This is going to be TOUGH.


Bryon Howard

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In other news, we are still making progress on WiTHiN - the expedition boat. The portlight and hatch holes have been cut-out and we have started preparing the edges which is a very time-consuming job! Each of the cut-out holes have to be de-cored, filled with micro, then reinforced with 20 layers of unidirectional carbon running around the perimeter of the hole with a final layer of bidirectional carbon to cap it off.



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my x-wing starfighter cockpit



We got the seat panels inserted into the expedition boat and just as a double check, I placed my recumbent seat onto the carbon seat panel and used the cranks and drive from Critical Power 2 to check where the pedals will be. It all fit perfectly.

We also got the port light (windows) holes cut out of the cabin top, so we placed the top onto the hull while I sat in the seat. For a moment, I was ready launch a plasma bomb to destroy the death star from my X-wing fighter starfighter cockpit seat. Then I confirmed that nothing interfered with the pedal revolution (it's a human power X-wing) and checked the view out the windows (making sure that the horizon from my eye level was mid-window). All worked perfectly according to plan. Whew! Exciting!!!

I joked with Ken that I want to get the hugest bank of flashing lights and switches and gauges filling up both of those arm rests. Of course, they would do nothing, but how cool would that look!


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Peace and rainbows

Peace, rainbows, a mean machine, and a shiny new logo!


Peace and rainbows. man.



We have the lower hull almost totally assembled now, so for fun, we placed the cabin on, and the other top deck panels. It's really starting to come together! Ken is doing a fantastic job and we are progressing nicely - a little slower than I had hoped for, but the quality of Kens workmanship and Stuart's design is second to none. This will be one, mean - state of the art - human powered machine when she is finished.


We started removing some of the jig stations. I can stand on the bow, and it is rock solid.


We prepared the edges of the cut-outs for inspection hatches in two bulkheads and carboned the bulkheads into the hull. 15 layers of uni-directional carbon surrounds each hatch / portlight cut-out!



I am getting tons of help purchasing supplies and equipment from new PedaltheOcean.com sponsor Glenn Mulhare from Mariner Parts. The shipment of hatches and portlights is due to arrive today and we're working on specifying the electronics now (solar panels, radios, GPS, etc). It is going to be pretty state of the art. The AIS will talk to the GPS, and the marine radio will broadcast the GPS coords, and I can get sat weather on the GPS, etc - it's all going to be pretty awesome. My good friend George and PTO sponsor from MitrPak is working on the drive legs right now. They should be here in a week or so and we should be able to start working on the structure to hold it in place.





New sponsors are coming online including a tracking device, a sea anchor, a machinist who is milling the prop, a web developer, a web designer, a copywriter, a new charity, a safety boat, and many others who are kindly volunteering to be a part of this in various ways. Thanks to everyone and welcome to the team! Details and names will all be announced when we roll-out the new web site. If you would like to 'join the PTO team' and feel like you have a bit of time or expertise you can offer, email me - I always appreciate the help.
I'm also making good progress on other PTO project items including securing a safety boat for the expedition, the new charity that I hope to raise $250,000 for, and a splashy new web site. I'll announce my new partners and more details soon! Here is a sneak preview of the new PTO logo:



I am speaking at a grade 9 graduation ceremony tomorrow morning and then Helen and I are off to Bellingham on Friday to run the Northface Endurance Challenge on Saturday. Helen's running the half and I'm running the 80 km. I'm ready, but with a lingering knee injury, so I'm a bit apprehensive about that. Oh well... all part of the adventure I guess. I won't be setting any records that's for sure, but since this is my first ultra, my goal is just to finish within the cut off time. Wait.. what is the cut off time anyhow? Let me check... Oh, it's 13 hours. I should be ok. (famous last words!)

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The Hull

The lower hull jig is finished and we have the first panel in!



First, my training progress for the Northface Endurance Challenge Gortex 50 mile run June 6: My last long run weekend consisted of a 6 hour run on Saturday followed by a 3 hour run on Sunday. Both went very well and my pace was faster on the 6 hour run than the previous weekend, so that is good. No serious injuries so far - my Achilles tendinitis has gone away like I knew it would and now I have a bit of a sore knee developing. The race is still a bit over 2 weeks away, so I have time to recuperate.

Second, Pedaltheocean human powered ocean crossing progress: I've been making some good progress on expedition plans.

I am close to signing on with a new charity which is very exciting. I did some research and found that previous ocean crossing expeditions raised anywhere from $20,000 to $600,000 for their charities, so I'm totally pumped about what I can do - sorry, about what 'WE' can do for this great cause!

I need to announce the new Canada to Hawaii route, so I am working with a great web design company & PTO sponsor / team member on a Pedaltheocean.com re-design. The roll-out of the new site will coincide with the route announcement and the partnership with the charity.

I am also pretty happy that I may have found a safety boat to follow me across the Pacific to Hawaii. Again, I don't want to say anything until it's a 100% sure thing, but if it works out, it will provide me with the responsible safety net I want, plus it will be a great platform to film from. I am looking for someone who might be interested in producing a film, ( or documentary, TV series, TV show, whatever) and who might enjoy a 40 to 60 day Pacific cruise.

Third, speaking: I'm not nearly as busy as I want to be, but this economy is really beating up on the speaking business. I have a booking to speak at a Toastmasters club annual wrap-up luncheon on June 21, a Junior high school year-end function on June 9, and I'm speaking to American Program Bureau in Boston on June 23. APB is one of the largest speaker bureaus in the US and they want to sign an exclusive representation agreement with me which I am considering.

Fourth, other cool projects: My buddy Roz Savage is due to depart Hawaii for Tuvalu, then onto Australia. According to the countdown timer on her web site, her departure window opens in 3 days from now. We all wish her well!

Fifth, boat building progress:

39. The lower hull jig section patterns are printed and cut out



40. The jog sections are traced onto 1" thick MDF

41. The jig sections are cut out with a skill saw and jig saw.

42. The jig sections for the upper cabin are removed from the square box, and the jig sections for the hull are fastened into place.


43. The jig sections are aligned using target holes and a tight string. After we aligned each station, we could peer through a 1/4 inch hole in the end station and look through ALL 15 holes in 15 stations spanning almost 30 feet!




44. A slot was cut down the middle of the floor hull panel to allow it to bend slightly to fit into a shallow 'V' shape in the jig sections. It is held in place temporarily by weights.

45. The carbon panel is secured to the jig stations with screws and blocks, and the cut is filled with a runny mixture of micro & epoxy

46. The seem is reinforced with a strip of carbon tape, then peel ply is placed over it.



47. Sand is poured into the epoxy whetted carbon tape & peel ply to keep the carbon tightly pressed against the panel and the seem.

See the ENTIRE process (all 47 steps) at this blog post.

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Cabin top



Well, we have the cabin top assembled! This is pretty cool because it's the first thing we've made that actually looks like Ocean WiTHiN! We're also pretty psyched to see that Stuart Bloomfields design magic works like a charm. After building the cabin top jig and fitting the 3 cabin top carbon panels into position, they fit PERFECTLY - amazing.

All the construction steps for the cabin top are below, but first a quick training update. As you may recall, I signed up to compete at the Northface Endurance Challenge 50 mile ultramarathon on June 6 in Bellingham, Washington. This will be my first foray into 'ultra' territory which is typically defined as distances greater than 30 miles. I'm really, really enjoying the training which basically consists of 2 long runs per week, back to back. On Saturday I ran up and down Moose Mountain trail in Kananaskis for 4 hours, then I ran it for 5 hours on Sunday.

Running a hilly trail is easier in ways than a flat course. The constant muscle changes from climbing up the steep incline to running down hill seems to 'spread the load' a bit more than the relentless flat and level run. I feel better after 4 hours than a flat run for sure and feel like I can keep going.

The Northface Endurance Challenge Gortex 50 is a TOUGH race with over 13,500 feet of elevation change over 80 km of mountainous trails. The rule of thumb for predicting finishing times for a double marathon is to take your best marathon time, double it and add an hour. This would put me at 8 hours, but that isn't the case with this race. The WINNING time for my division last year was 9 hours! This is one TOUGH race.

My training run on Moose Mountain is a 7.3 km, 2000 foot climb up, then 7.3 km down. I timed myself on my 5.25 hour run on Sunday and calculated that if I could hold the same pace for the entire 80 km race, I could finish in 9 1/2 hours. That's wishful thinking though because I will surely start to slow down after my 5th or 6th or 7th hour! I will be happy if I can break 10 hours.

OK, on to the cabin top building steps:

26. Here is the completed jig station box. It's flat and square and very rigid with coasters so it can be moved in and out of the shop.

27. Ken is tracing the jig station patterns onto some 1" thick MDF wood.

28. The jig stations are cut out and assembled onto the box at pre-specified spacing

29. The jig stations are aligned to each other using alignment targets and a tight string.



30. The carbon sandwich panels are placed into position in the jig. Note that the peel ply and blanket layers are still on the panels. This is to prevent us from rubbing off the peel ply texture which is required for a proper bond and paint.

31. The edges of the peel ply are ripped off showing the carbon. The panels are screwed into the jig sections using a strip of particle board. This will force each panel to curve into it's exact position.



32. The edges of the panels are joined with a radius of micro/epoxy




33. The joins will be reinforced with a strip of carbon tape. To avoid fraying the carbon, a large sheet is whetted out with epoxy resin first, then cut between 2 layers of poly.

34. the carbon tape is placed onto the seam. The epoxy/micro filled radius in the join is semi-curred to a tacky consistency to assure a good bond between the carbon and the micro.

This shows the carbon tape fully whetted out


35. The carbon tape is covered with a strip of peel ply and a strip of absorbent blanket, then covered with plastic.

36. Normally, this carbon tape wet layup should be curred under vacuum, but in this case it would be difficult to obtain a good vacuum due to the seam between the two carbon panels. So, we used about 100 lbs of sand to press down on the wet carbon.

37. After curring, the sand is removed, and the peel and blanket layers are removed. The inside is temporarily reinforced with wood spacers.

38. The cabin top is removed from the cabin top jig.


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Cutting panels

We have completed all but two panels and we realized that we had miscalculated the amount of epoxy resin we were going through. The raw Corecell panels were soaking up way more epoxy that we had originally expected, so I placed an order for more MAS brand epoxy from Noahs in Montreal and we have to wait until Friday for delivery.

It was a chance to switch gears for a bit, so we started work on the next phase - building a jig to hold the panels in place while they are bonded together, and cutting the exact panel shapes out of the rectangular carbon boards. The following steps are a continuation of the step by step "Building WiTHiN" blog post from last week. I'll continue to revise that blog post by adding new steps as we do them.



23. The panel drawing is placed on the cured carbon fiber panel. The photo shows the bulkheads drawing on a section of panel with the peel ply and blanket layers removed. Normally, we do not remove this layer until AFTER the parts have been cut out.



24. The drawing is taped down to the carbon panel by cutting holds in the paper and taping through to the panel.


The two photos above show the paper pattern taped down to the carbon panel ready for cutting.



25. I use a jig saw and follow the cut lines on the paper pattern. Since the paper is taped down to the carbon panel, I can cut right through the paper and panel.

This shows a small panel part cut-out with the paper panel still taped on. Note the nice tight fit between the pattern and the cut carbon panel.



This is the cut-out top deck panel with the peel ply / blanket layer still attached. We won't remove this layer until we are ready to place it into the jig because it protects the surface of the carbon.



26. Ken is building a jig for the top & bottom hull halves. He is starting with a long, straight square box on wheels and the jig stations will be mounted to the top of it and aligned. We will start with the top deck (top hull half) and when it is assembled, we will remove the jig stations and install the jig stations for the bottom hull.

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Building WiTHiN

Building Ocean WiTHiN - a human powered ocean crossing boat



My last blog post called "how it's done" was a step by step attempt to show you how we are building Ocean WiTHiN and it was received with a bit of confusion. I realized that I could do a much better job, so after four more days of panel making, and way more photos taken, here is a much more thorough explanation of what we are doing.

Design:

The illustration above is a computer rendering of Ocean WiTHiN - a pedal powered boat designed for me to human-power across an ocean with. The ocean in question will either be the Pacific ocean via a route that has never been 'human powered' before - from Vancouver Island Canada to Hawaii in June of 2010, or a speed record attempt across the Atlantic ocean in less than 40 days from Canary Islands to the West Indies in December of 2010.

Ocean WiTHiN was inspired by the prototype version of WiTHiN shown in the photo below taken near Tofino off the west coast of Vancouver Island. Sea trials video here.


WiTHiN prototype was designed by myself and human powered boat guru Rick Willoughby and build by myself and my friend Ben Eadie. She is made of fiberglass using a double kayak hull as a base which was kindly donated by PedalTheOcean sponsor and advisor Steve Schleicher from Nimbus Kayaks.

The new boat - Ocean WiTHiN was designed by myself, Rick Willoughby and world record winning naval architect Stuart Bloomfield. Ocean WiTHiN is made from flat carbon fiber panels that are stitched together to form the basic hull.


The above illustration shows some of the hull panels, and interior seat and bulkhead panels

This is a paper model assembled from printing and cutting out the individual panels. This method of construction is called developable panel. An advantage of developable panels is faster and less expensive fabrication process. According to Ricks calculations, the efficiency differences between a smooth contoured moulded hull (like the prototype) and the square flat panel hull is minimal.


How we're building it




The drawing above shows the layout of some of the individual panels that will form the hull. Each panel is made from 1/2" thick Corecell foam board covered with 2 layers of carbon fiber on each side - called a sandwich panel. We are making all of these rectangular sandwich panels in advance, then tracing the outlines of each panel part and cutting that part out with a saw.

Each panel was printed onto paper using a large format plotter. This photo shows two panel drawings on our giant layup table.

1. The first step is to cut and assemble 1/2" thick Corecell boards to make the first panel. The Corecell boards are joined together using an epoxy/micro balloon mix, then sanded flat and smooth.

2. We roll-out a long sheet of poly (Plastic drop sheet) and tape it down to our layup table. The poly is twice as wide as shown in the photo and the second half is folded down over the left hand side of the table. The poly will form a bag that will eventually cover the entire panel. The Corecell panel is placed on top of the poly.



3. The first layer of carbon is 6 oz unidirectional carbon fiber. Unidirectional carbon is a fabric consisting of thousands of thin carbon fiber threads all running longitudinally and held together with a fine thread. Unidirectional carbon is very strong in tension longitudinally and has zero strength width-wise. The carbon is 12" wide and comes on a roll which we roll out to the length of our panel and cut.



4. The unidirectional carbon strips for BOTH sides of the Corecell panel (2 strips on the top side of the foam board and 2 strips on the bottom side) are rolled up and stored at the back of the table.
5. The second layer of carbon to be applied to each side of the core is 6 oz bidirectional weave. This is a weave with threads running both horizontally and vertically. It is cut and applied to the foam board such that the fibers are running at 45 degrees to the length of the core (and direction of the unidirectional). These sections of fabric are cut to size, rolled up, and stored at the back of the table.

6. Absorbent blanket material is cut to fit over the length of the Corecell board. This material will soak up excess epoxy - more about that later.



7. Strips of 'peel ply' fabric are also cut to fit each side of the panel and stored along with the blanket and carbon at the back of the table. I'll explain what the peel ply is for later.



8. This is a picture of Ken weighing each roll of carbon. We will be wetting-out the carbon layers on the Corecell with epoxy resin and we use the weight of each layer of carbon to calculate the exact amount of epoxy to apply.


9. We mix a pre-calculated amount of epoxy resin required to fully cover the Corecell foam board. This epoxy is poured into the foam board and then spread evenly over the board with squeegees. I don't have a photo of this process. After the board is fully saturated with epoxy, we roll on our first layer of unidirectional carbon fabric.

10. A pre-calculated volume of epoxy resin is mixed and then poured in an even line down the middle of the carbon on the Corecell board and then spread evenly over the surface with the yellow squeegees shown above.



11. After the unidirectional layer has been fully whetted out with epoxy, we roll on our bidirectional carbon weave. (There's always a clown - hey?)

12. The epoxy resin is a two part mixture: resin and catalyst which will harden (cure) in about 8 hours.

13. The bidirectional carbon weave is whetted-out with epoxy in the same way that the unidirectional carbon was - by pouring an even line down the middle, then splitting the line with squeegees from each side pulling epoxy from the middle to the edges and then pressing the epoxy into the carbon fabric.

14. You'll be tempted to, but don't eat the epoxy.



15. The process of wetting out the foam core, rolling out the unidirectional carbon, wetting out the unidirectional carbon, rolling out the bidirectional weave, and wetting that out is repeated on BOTH sides of the Corecell panel.

Before the panel is turned over, the wet layup is covered with a layer of peel ply (not shown). This is a fabric that won't stick to the curred epoxy, but will allow wet epoxy to seep out of the layup into an absorbent blanket placed on top of the peel ply. The blanket strip is placed on top of the peel ply layer, then the whole board is carefully flipped over and the entire process is repeated on the other side.

The whole wetting out process takes about 90 minutes for each side with two people working. The preparation which includes cutting the Corecell panel, assembly of the Corecell sections, and cutting of the carbon, peel ply, blanket, poly sheet and mixing epoxy takes an additional 3 to 4 hours. So far, each panel has taken 2 man/days to make.



16. After both sides have been whetted out and the peel ply and blanket have been applied, the other side of the poly sheet is placed over the panel completely covering the layup. The three open sides of the poly are sealed using gummy tape to form an air tight bag.


17. A vacuum pump is connected to the bag and all of the air is sucked out of the bag. The vacuum process creates very high pressure (about 26" mercury) which presses the plastic bag against the wet layup forcing excess epoxy to seep out of the carbon through the peel ply and be absorbed by the blanket.





19. In order for the entire layup to fully cure in 8 hours, it is important for the temperature to stay at or above room temperature. Higher curing temperatures are advantageous because it increases the viscosity of the epoxy allowing more excess epoxy to be absorbed by the blanket. To increase the curring temperature and decrease the curring time, we cover the entire wet layup with electric blankets which keep the panel very warm.


This photo shown the vacuum tube entering the bag and the electric blankets placed on top.

20. The entire layup is left to cure under heat and vacuum for 8 hours and then we turn the vacuum pump off, and leave the heat on until morning (total of about 18 hours curing). Then the bag is cut open and the fully curred, hard carbon panel is removed. We store the panels in a curved stand which is approximates the curve that the panel will take when it is used to form the boat hull.

This is a photo of my 4 car garage which has been turned into a boat making shop.

21. Eventually, the peel ply and blanket is removed from the carbon, but this won't happen until the panel shape has been cut out of the panel. The peel ply and blanket protects the surface of the panel until we are ready to assemble the boat. The photo above shows our first two panels (with the peel ply/blanket layer removed) post curring on a warm, heated floor.



22. The panel drawing is placed on the cured carbon fiber panel. The photo shows the bulkheads drawing on a section of panel with the peel ply and blanket layers removed. Normally, we do not remove this layer until AFTER the parts have been cut out.



23. The drawing is taped down to the carbon panel by cutting holds in the paper and taping through to the panel.


The two photos above show the paper pattern taped down to the carbon panel ready for cutting.



24. I use a jig saw and follow the cut lines on the paper pattern. Since the paper is taped down to the carbon panel, I can cut right through the paper and panel.

This shows a small panel part cut-out with the paper panel still taped on. Note the nice tight fit between the pattern and the cut carbon panel.



This is the cut-out top deck panel with the peel ply / blanket layer still attached. We won't remove this layer until we are ready to place it into the jig because it protects the surface of the carbon.



25. Ken is building a jig for the top & bottom hull halves. He is starting with a long, straight square box on wheels and the jig stations will be mounted to the top of it and aligned. We will start with the top deck (top hull half) and when it is assembled, we will remove the jig stations and install the jig stations for the bottom hull.




26
. Here is the completed jig station box. It's flat and square and very rigid with coasters so it can be moved in and out of the shop.

27. Ken is tracing the jig station patterns onto some 1" thick MDF wood.

28. The jig stations are cut out and assembled onto the box at pre-specified spacing

29. The jig stations are aligned to each other using alignment targets and a tight string.



30. The carbon sandwich panels are placed into position in the jig. Note that the peel ply and blanket layers are still on the panels. This is to prevent us from rubbing off the peel ply texture which is required for a proper bond and paint.

31. The edges of the peel ply are ripped off showing the carbon. The panels are screwed into the jig sections using a strip of particle board. This will force each panel to curve into it's exact position.



32. The edges of the panels are joined with a radius of micro/epoxy




33. The joins will be reinforced with a strip of carbon tape. To avoid fraying the carbon, a large sheet is whetted out with epoxy resin first, then cut between 2 layers of poly.

34. the carbon tape is placed onto the seam. The epoxy/micro filled radius in the join is semi-curred to a tacky consistency to assure a good bond between the carbon and the micro.

This shows the carbon tape fully whetted out


35. The carbon tape is covered with a strip of peel ply and a strip of absorbent blanket, then covered with plastic.

36. Normally, this carbon tape wet layup should be curred under vacuum, but in this case it would be difficult to obtain a good vacuum due to the seam between the two carbon panels. So, we used about 100 lbs of sand to press down on the wet carbon.

37. After curring, the sand is removed, and the peel and blanket layers are removed. The inside is temporarily reinforced with wood spacers.

38. The cabin top is removed from the cabin top jig.





39. The lower hull jig section patterns are printed and cut out



40. The jog sections are traced onto 1" thick MDF

41. The jig sections are cut out with a skill saw and jig saw.

42. The jig sections for the upper cabin are removed from the square box, and the jig sections for the hull are fastened into place.


43. The jig sections are aligned using target holes and a tight string. After we aligned each station, we could peer through a 1/4 inch hole in the end station and look through ALL 15 holes in 15 stations spanning almost 30 feet!




44. A slot was cut down the middle of the floor hull panel to allow it to bend slightly to fit into a shallow 'V' shape in the jig sections. It is held in place temporarily by weights.

45. The carbon panel is secured to the jig stations with screws and blocks, and the cut is filled with a runny mixture of micro & epoxy

46. The seem is reinforced with a strip of carbon tape, then peel ply is placed over it.



47. Sand is poured into the epoxy whetted carbon tape & peel ply to keep the carbon tightly pressed against the panel and the seem.

I will continue this step by step post as we progress. If you have any question, please feel free to post a comment to this blog post and either I or Ken will respond with an answer.

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Here's how it's done:





Ken and I are now like a well oiled machine. A carbon sandwich panel making machine. Yesterday we finished side B of our first panel containing seat parts, and BOTH sides of the next panel which consists of the bulkheads. We have a pretty good system down, and so far the panels are coming out great - very flat, hard, smooth and strong. The photo above shows the two panels sitting on my warm water heated floor in our TV room. Since winter seems to be hanging in there in Calgary, it isn't warm enough in the garage for these panels to fully cure.

Following is the step by step process for making a carbon fiber sandwich panel:



1. The above photo shows two patterns for our next panel running almost the full length of the table - something like 26 feet long. I believe these are the two main side panels of the hull.



2. The first step is to roll out poly for the vacuum bag. The plastic is folded on the left hand side and will envelope the entire panel after it is fully whetted out to form a sealed vacuum bag.

3. The next step is to place the Corecell foam core down on the table and bond the individual sheets of Corecel together.

I use a pre-mixed epoxy/micro balloons fairing compound, then place flat boards and weights over each join so that it stays flat.

More photos after Monday's work!






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Blew through another iPod



I seem to blast through iPods as fast as I blow through sneakers. Last summer during training for the 24 hour human powered boat record I purchased a totally water proof enclosure for my iPod from OtterBox because my previous iPod got wet and eventually died. I was sick of buying new iPods so I decided to invest my money into a water proof and shock proof case.

Good idea in theory, but because this OtterBox case fits the iPod so tightly, inserting and removing the iPod for updating and charging wore out the headphones plug and now the sound is shorting out. So, Time for a new pair of shoes, and yet another new iPod.

I searched the house for as many old, broken iPods as I could find and shot this photo. Included in the collection is the very first iPod as well as the mini, nano, shuffle, touch, classic and probably some I don't even remember the name of.

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Ken and I applied the first carbon laminate layer on one of the panels yesterday. We picked a panel that contained seat parts so if we made a mistake we could correct it before we got to the more crucial hull panels.



The layup was 1 layer of unidirectional carbon on the .5" Corecell core, then bidirectional weave at 45 degrees. The layup went smoothly and we ripped off the peel ply this morning to reveal a beautifully flat and strong panel. For the next panel we are going to try to do BOTH sides at the same time.



Above shot is the sandwich panel curring in the vacuum bag. We have about 9 panels to make and I am thinking we could build one panel per day - so in a couple of weeks we should have all of the carbon panels made. Next step is to cut out the panel shapes, build a jig for the top and bottom hull half's, then assemble the panels. Easy. Ya right...




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New space


After only 2 days into my Peru trip, I got a text from Ken with the bad news that we got kicked out of the hanger that my friend Steve so kindly offered to us as to build the new ocean crossing human powered boat - Ocean WiTHiN.

I guess the owner of the Citation jet that was hangered in there didn't like the idea of us lugging long 2x4's under the wings of his baby (understandable I guess), so Ken looked around for another space. The cheapest he could find was a full hanger for $1500 per month - no way.



I knew my garage would be the perfect size for this job, so I sold Helen and Krista on the advantages of parking the cars outside for the entire summer. There weren't many advantages and admittedly it was a tough sell.



So, I spend a couple of days and totally GUTTED the garage and my shop, washed the floor, cleaned it all out and made room for the almost 40 foot long, perfectly flat, most awesome panel layup table that Ken had already assembled at the hanger. Ken installed more lights and we are now totally set to get started on the panels! There is room beside the layup table for a jig that will hold the panels in place to form the top and bottom hulls.


I've been playing with my 3d model of Stuart's design for WiTHiN to get a better understanding of how my drive leg and keel will be incorporated into the hull. Rick Willoughby wants to use the drive leg bay as a torque tube to transfer the rolling moment from the keel into the hull. My good friend and sponsor George from MitrePak is building the drive leg.

Speaking of 'drive legs', here is a before and after shot of my strange swollen foot after we got back from Peru. My Dr. friend Chad thinks it was swelling due to extreme altitude changes and sitting on a plane for 10 hours. It was fine the next day, and I was able to get right back into my ultra marathon training program, so no worries.

The training is going good - no injuries to speak of so far. I'm handling the volume OK. This week I did a 4 hr run on Saturday, 3.5 hr run on Sunday, 1 hr yesterday and I'm off to do a 3 hr run today. I have the Police half marathon to run this Saturday, and I'll probably be running it TWICE - the first time as fast as I can, and the second time in survival mode.




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Ocean boat progress. FINALLY!



Finally some real progress on the new ocean crossing boat!

The image above is a model that Ken made using the developed panels designed by Stuart Bloomfield. This is basically how the new boat will be built. The first step is to create the flat panels which are carbon over Corecell closed cell foam core. Then we cut-out each panel shape and form the top and bottom hull halves by placing the panels into a wood jig then joining them together with carbon tape.



My good friend Steve McDonough kindly offered to donate some workshop space in his new hanger at the Springbank airport, so I jumped at the opportunity and Ken and I are going to be building WiTHiN at the new hanger.


The very first step was to test our panel making procedure by running some stress tests on a sample panel. Rick Willoughby suggested two tests - a break test and a flatwise tensile test. He also made a spreadsheet for us to record and quantify the results. Following are the photos and results for each test:


This is a 2" square section of the test sandwich panel. The lamination schedule is 1/2" thick Corecell, then 5 oz unidirectional carbon, then 6 oz bidirectional carbon. (same for both sides of the core). Both sides were fully whetted out with epoxy resin then vacuum bagged.


This shows the break test setup. I used my lat pull-down machine with wood blocks to support the test panel. Weight lifting plates placed on the sliding weight holder pressed down on a 2" wide strip of stainless steel on the test panel.


Our first sample broke at 176 lbs. The 2" x 12" long test panel weighs only 1.75 ounces and I since I weigh only 155 lbs, I could stand on it without it breaking. However, when it broke during the test, the sample sheared apart due to a poor bond between a thin coat of micro on the core and the first layer of carbon - not good.


We made a new panel without the micro and it weighed less at only 1.6 ounces and tested much better. The photo shows how it sheared under compression on the top layer as expected.


I coated another sample panel with an additional coat of epoxy which would simulate a surface finish coating (like micro and paint) and re-tested it. This .3 oz layer of epoxy made it a whopping 60 pounds stronger in the break test and it took 200 lbs to break it!


The most important test is the flatwise tensile test which measures the bond between the laminate layers and the core. What we didn't want to see, is the laminate layers separating from each other, or separating from the core.


To break the 1.25" diameter core sample took almost every weight I had - a total of 276 lbs!

This test resulted in a high 96% of theoretical optimal strength and it broke half-way through the core material which is exactly what we wanted to see.

We had the panel drawings printed out at full-scale. These will be used to trace the panel shape onto the flat carbon panels, then they will be cut out and assembled in a wood jig that will hold the panels in position until they are joined together and bulkheads are inserted.


This is a photo of Ken looking down the pattern. The exact length on the print-out was about 20 mm short of what it is supposed to be, so we are going to ask the printers to re-print them.
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Helen and I are off on a hiking trip to Peru to visit Machu Pichuu on Saturday. It's an organized hiking trip from lodge to lodge as we make our way from Cusco to the legendary ancient civilization of Machu Pichuu. I am going to take the opportunity to fit in plenty of trail running at altitude in preparation for my 50 mile ultra marathon in June.


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Marathons, Motivation, Making Boats & Most Extreme

Surf City Marathon



Helen and I just got back from a GREAT trip down to Huntington Beach, California for the Surf City Marathon - a top rate event which I HIGHLY recommend if you are looking for a scenic marathon to run. We were there with our good friends Kevin and Cindy Casper.

Cindy had a great race and she qualified for the Boston marathon! Way to go Cindy! Kevin ran his first half marathon, and Helen successfully finished her 15th marathon - whew! I had a good day as well with my 2nd best time of 3:17, 11th in my division and a Boston qualification.

Ultra Marathon

As you might recall, I am planning a possible attempt at the indoor velodrome 1 hour unfaired recumbent record for some point next Spring/Summer. However, since my training for the Surf City marathon went so well, I have decided to also plan something that I've been wanting to do for many, many years now - a 50 mile (80.5 km) Ultra Marathon. Yikes! I haven't picked the race yet, but it will be in June which gives me about 4 months to train. My training started on the day after the Surf City Marathon with an attempt to run which was quite laughable. More like a very enthusiastic hobble than a run. Boy was I sore from that marathon!

Training for the ultra will consist of short runs almost every day with two back to back long runs each week consisting of 3 to 4 hours each. I am actually looking forward to the challenge.

New Web Site www.Human-Power.com

My speaking career has been keeping me very busy. I was in DC a couple of weeks ago to speak to Nutricia Corporation and that was a TON OF FUN! They are a GREAT group and I got a super enthusiastic response from them. Future bookings include a potential presentation for a Winter Olympic sponsor event in Vancouver!

A lot of my business is generated by Google search, and my web site www.human-power.com place on organic google search for keywords "motivational speaker" in very important. To improve my position, I need to start to generate links from other web sites to my human-power.com web site.

You would be doing me a huge solid if you could link http://www.human-power.com from your web site - possibly with the linked text "motivational speaker" Many thanks, and I would be happy to link back to yours from this blog in return.


Also, if there is anything at the speaking web site that you care to comment on, please email me your thoughts at greg@human-power.com. Sometimes we are so close to our trees, that it become difficult to see our forests if you know what I mean. I have worked very hard with my mentor - motivational speaker Steve Donahue, on staying relateable in my actual presentation which I think has resulted in a very impactfull but honest presentation. Your comments - both good and bad are appreciated.

PedalTheOcean.com progress

Ken and I have ordered and received all of the carbon and core supplies and we are ready to sart construction of the new ocean crossing boat. We are just waiting for final details on the drawings from naval architect Stuart Bloomfield.





As you may recall, last year I made a 30 mile trip out into the Pacific ocean from Tofino, BC with the prototype version of WiTHiN and encountered some 15 foot swells and I got so sick I thought I was going to die. Link to that blog post here. I really love the wild west coast of Vancouver Island and was so inspired during the two sea trials that I conducted there, that I decided to look more seriously into a new route for PedalTheOcean.





Rather than crossing the Atlantic by human power which dozens (and dozens and dozens) have already done, I could be the first person to travel from Canada to Hawaii under his own power - this has never been attempted before. The distance is about the same as my Canary Island to Barbados route, and the currents, waves and average weather conditions are also similar.



I contracted weather expert Rick Shema at www.WeatherGuy.com to do an analysis and comparison of both routes, and Rick thinks the new route is doable. I have a PDF report if anyone is interested in reading it. A departure window of May/June is required, so I am looking at possibly June of 2010. This gives me this winter and spring to finish construction and this summer, and next winter for sea trials and experience building.

Most EXTREME

OK - check this out. Ollie Hicks has departed from Tasmania on his ultra extreme ocean rowing quest - to be the first person to circumnavigate the planet by rowing. He is circling Antarctica via the Southern ocean. Ollie is rowing 18,000 miles of the most hostile marine environment on earth. He will will encounter freezing temperatures, 50 foot waves - OMG! You can follow his progress here. I will certainly be watching.



Also Mostly EXTREME

Jennifer Figge is attempting to become the first women to swim across the Atlantic Ocean. Figge is a 56-years-old mother, ultra runner, and swimmer. A few weeks ago she dove into the Atlantic ocean with the goal to swim across 2100 miles from the Cape Verde Islands off the African coast to Barbados. According to Jennifer, her epic swim should take about two months, swimming around eight hours a day, but the math doesn't add up. An average endurance swimmer can swim about 3 km / hour (on flat, calm water - not in rough, open ocean!). 8 hours per day * 3 km/hr = 24 km per day. 2100 miles converted to km is 3300 km. 3300 km / 24 km pr day is 137.5 days! that's about 4 1/2 months, not a couple of months. Still, I wish Jennifer the best of luck and I will definitely be following. Here is Jennifer's FaceBook page.




Labels: , , ,

Strutless bizarreness



I went out to a new lake today and the test results were enlightening. I think I can narrow down the speed difference between what we measure at Elbow lake and both Glenmore reservoir and today's Ghost lake to a preferential current flowing through Elbow lake.

I'll explain: At Elbow, I noticed that my average speed doing a counter clockwise loop around the lake was 11.7 and my speed doing a clockwise loop was 11.1 (km per hour). I assumed this was due to some natural left hand turn tendency of the boat that I was fighting when turning right.

We also assumed that the average speed would be slightly higher when moving in a straight line. At yesterdays Glenmore test and today's Ghost Lake test, this was NOT the case - it was slower in a straight line. We figured that must be due to less drag while turning left and started looking into issues like the strut possibly not aligned and acting like a rudder, recalculating the amount of rudder required of offset the side thrust, and looking at the hull itself.

I repeated a short, 1/2 km loop in both directions today at Ghost lake and was very surprised to measure the same average speed in both directions which was 11.5 kph. This pointed to a current at Elbow being the issue. My average speed over BOTH directions at Elbow just happens to be 11.4 kph - very close to my average today. If we add .1 kph for the smaller flexible shaft to the 11.4 Elbow speed, both speeds are exactly the same.

Elbow valley lake is fed by a small river flowing into the West end. There is a levy that runs under a bridge at the south west side of the lake. The direction of water flow would be from the river then south then south across the lake over the levy. A counter clockwise loop would be taking advantage of this flow whereas a clockwise loop would be fighting the current for at least 1/2 of the loop. There is PLENTY of water flowing right now, as the spring melt is happening. The water level in Glenmore and Ghost lake is very low in preparation for the spring melt from the mountains. Stefan tells me it is creating all kinds of strange eddies and currents. Not the most ideal testing conditions.

This Elbow current result is good news and bad news. The bad news is that my REAL average 150 watt speed is 11.5 kph, not 11.8 like I thought. This could be worth as much as 7 km over 24 hours if I could maintain an ending average of 150 watts (which would not happen). More likely, the difference is probably worth 4 to 5 km over 24 hours. The good news is we found the problem and it isn't anything I can do anything about.

This is bizarre: During today's trouble shooting session at Ghost, I wanted to eliminate the prop strut as the cause of the problems so I just took it off. That's right - there was NO strut holding the prop to the boat - just the shaft. The prop was dangling off the end of an unsupported shaft coupled to my gear box.

The two-blade pusher prop is self-stabilizing meaning that each blade corrects it's attitude when the other blade slips due to changes in the angle of attack (or something like that - I'm regurgitating what Rick told me). I may not be explaining it correctly, but I understand what is happening. This means that the prop will simply start pushing against the shaft and find a horizontal attitude on it's own.

And it works! There was no perceptible difference in feel when I removed the strut, and there was a .1 kph increase is speed due to removing the drag of the strut. Very strange. If you saw it you would laugh and think it is a joke.
This is the strutless prop. No joke! It works!

A nano-second after tripping the shutter for this photo,
a gust of wind came up and blew the boat off the stand
into the water busting my rudder in the process!


Speed data:

date lake power watts wind kph waves rudder prop loop size km loop dir hull floats other SPEED kph
06/05/08 elbow 150 5 ripples big thin .5 counter taped norm
11.1
06/09/08 elbow 150 calm flat big thin .5 counter painted norm
11.2
06/09/08 elbow 150 calm flat small thin .5 counter painted norm
11.7
06/09/08 elbow 150 calm flat small thick .5 counter painted norm
11.7
06/09/08 elbow 150 calm flat small thin .5 counter painted norm prop strut pulled into hull with cord 11.6
06/09/08 elbow 150 calm flat none thin .5 counter painted norm
11.8
06/09/08 elbow 150 calm flat small thin .5 clock painted norm
11.1
06/09/08 elbow 150 10 ripply small thin .5 counter painted norm
11.5
06/12/08 elbow 150 20 waves big thin .5 counter painted norm
11.0
06/09/08 elbow 150 20 waves big thick .5 counter painted norm
10.9
06/09/08 elbow 150 20 waves small thick .5 counter painted norm
11.3
06/09/08 elbow 150 20 waves small thin .5 counter painted skimmers rods 10
06/09/08 elbow 150 20 waves small thin .5 counter painted skimmers no rods 10.2
06/16/08
elbow
150
calm
flat
small
thin
.5
counter
painted
norm
flex shaft & freehub
11.9
06/16/08elbow150calmflatsmallthin.5counterpaintednormflex shaft & freehub11.8
06/16/08elbow150calmflatsmallthin.5counterpaintednormflex shaft & freehub11.8
06/16/08elbow100
calm
flat
small
thin
.5
counter
painted
norm
flex shaft & freehub10.3
06/16/08elbow200calmflatsmallthin.5counterpaintednormflex shaft & freehub13.2
06/16/08Glenmore
150
calmflatsmallthin2
out&back
painted
norm
flex shaft & freehub11.1
06/16/08Glenmore150calmflatsmallthin2.6
out&back
paintednormflex shaft & freehub11.1
06/16/08Glenmore150calmflatsmallthin1.35
counter
paintednormflex shaft & freehub10.9
06/16/08Glenmore15010
ripply
none
thin
.84
counter
painted
norm
flex shaft & freehub11.6
06/16/08Glenmore15010ripplybig
thin
.8
counter
painted
norm
flex shaft & freehub11.1
06/17/08Ghost
150
5
ripply
small
thin
.8
out&back
painted
norm
flex shaft & freehub11.6/11.2 = 11.4
06/17/08Ghost1505ripplysmallthin.52counterpaintednormflex shaft & freehub11.5
06/17/08Ghost1505ripplysmallthin.56clockpaintednormflex shaft & freehub11.6
06/17/08Ghost15010ripplysmallthick1out&backpaintednormflex shaft & freehub11.7/11.2 = 11.4
06/17/08Ghost15010ripplysmallthick.7out&backpaintednormflex shaft & freehub. NO PROP STRUT
11.8/11.2 = 11.5
Observations
1. Every 5 kph of wind equates to .1 kph decrease in speed
2. Big rudder is .6 kph slower than small rudder. Small rudder is .1 kph slower than no rudder
3. Right hand turns dramatically slow the boat down.
4. Paint vs packing tape was worth a speed increase of .1 kph
5. Elliminating the prop strut is worth an additional .1 kph in speed.
6. Counter clockwise loops at Elbow Valley lake are worth an additional .2 to .3 kph average speed due to current (??? need to verify)

Labels: ,

New confusing speed data


It was a perfect weather day today so I got the record boat out to Elbow Valley community lake and ran some test with the new short flexible shaft and free hub:
  • #1 flex shaft, small rudder, freehub, 150 watts = 11.9 kph
  • #2 REPEAT of #1 = 11.8 kph
  • #3 REPEAT of #1 = 11.8 kph
  • #4 100 watts = 10.3 kph
  • #5 200 watts = 13.2 kph
All of these speeds are almost exactly as per Ricks predicted speeds so this is very good news.



The spring steel shaft felt good - about the same as the stainless shaft I had on before. My speeds were about .1 kph faster with the smaller shaft diameter and length.

The other good news was the freehub that I coupled to the shaft worked very well. It allowed me to coast without pedaling whereas before, when I stopped moving the pedals, the prop would stop also and cause drag. However, it did nothing to change the feel of the normal pedal action and I found that I missed not being able to pedal backward to clear weeds from the prop or to go in reverse. I don' think that the weight or complexity of the freehub is worth it for the record boat. I don't plan on coasting at all anyhow. Here is a video of the freeprop spinning:

video

I've been waiting for decent weather, so I took the opportunity and packed the boat up and went to Glenmore reservoir to test some longer, straighter runs with some disappointing results:
  • #1 1 km out and back = 11.1 kph
  • #2 1.3 km out and back = 11.1 kph
  • #3 1.3 km big loop = 10.9 kph
  • #4 .8 km loop, NO RUDDER = 11.6 kph (10 kph wind)
  • #5 .8 km loop, BIG RUDDER = 11.1 kph (10 kph wind)
The reservoir is VERY dirty because of the high water flow and flooding this year. At one point near the canoe club I went through a large patch of branches, logs, weeds, etc. I had to pull weeds off the prop and prop strut and there may have been some weeds on the rudder. I didn't count this run because of this. The runs that I did count were in an area that didn't have any visible weeds and there were not weeds on the prop or rudder before or after runs.

So why were my long runs at Glenmore so much slower than at Elbow?

Is it possible that at the small Elbow valley lake I am taking advantage of a counter clockwise flow in the lake? I doubt it because I don't really ever notice any kind of drift when sitting still.

My rudderless run at Glenmore was very close to the speed of the rudderless run at Elbow if I subtract .2 kph for 10 kph winds. Also so was the small loop big rudder run. The only difference was that the initial runs were either straight or a large loop. This makes me think that my slower speeds at Glenmore are due to the straight line route or very large loops that I did. Perhaps the boat is more efficient if it is making a small, constant left hand turn.

To confirm this, I need to get back out to Glenmore (or some other large lake) and repeat tests with various loop diameters and directions. Here is an updated speed table:

date lake power watts wind kph waves rudder prop loop size km loop dir hull floats other SPEED kph
06/05/08 elbow 150 5 ripples big thin .5 counter taped norm
11.1
06/09/08 elbow 150 calm flat big thin .5 counter painted norm
11.2
06/09/08 elbow 150 calm flat small thin .5 counter painted norm
11.7
06/09/08 elbow 150 calm flat small thick .5 counter painted norm
11.7
06/09/08 elbow 150 calm flat small thin .5 counter painted norm prop strut pulled into hull with cord 11.6
06/09/08 elbow 150 calm flat none thin .5 counter painted norm
11.8
06/09/08 elbow 150 calm flat small thin .5 clock painted norm
11.1
06/09/08 elbow 150 10 ripply small thin .5 counter painted norm
11.5
06/12/08 elbow 150 20 waves big thin .5 counter painted norm
11.0
06/09/08 elbow 150 20 waves big thick .5 counter painted norm
10.9
06/09/08 elbow 150 20 waves small thick .5 counter painted norm
11.3
06/09/08 elbow 150 20 waves small thin .5 counter painted skimmers rods 10
06/09/08 elbow 150 20 waves small thin .5 counter painted skimmers no rods 10.2
06/16/08
elbow
150
calm
flat
small
thin
.5
counter
painted
norm
flex shaft & freehub
11.9
06/16/08elbow150calmflatsmallthin.5counterpaintednormflex shaft & freehub11.8
06/16/08elbow150calmflatsmallthin.5counterpaintednormflex shaft & freehub11.8
06/16/08elbow100
calm
flat
small
thin
.5
counter
painted
norm
flex shaft & freehub10.3
06/16/08elbow200calmflatsmallthin.5counterpaintednormflex shaft & freehub13.2
06/16/08Glenmore
150
calmflatsmallthin2
out&back
painted
norm
flex shaft & freehub11.1
06/16/08Glenmore150calmflatsmallthin2.6
out&back
paintednormflex shaft & freehub11.1
06/16/08Glenmore150calmflatsmallthin1.35
counter
paintednormflex shaft & freehub10.9
06/16/08Glenmore15010
ripply
none
thin
.84
counter
painted
norm
flex shaft & freehub11.6
06/16/08Glenmore15010ripplybig
thin
.8
counter
painted
norm
flex shaft & freehub11.1
06/17/08Ghost
150
5
ripply
small
thin
.8
out&back
painted
norm
flex shaft & freehub11.6/11.2 = 11.4
06/17/08Ghost1505ripplysmallthin.52counterpaintednormflex shaft & freehub11.5
06/17/08Ghost1505ripplysmallthin.56clockpaintednormflex shaft & freehub11.6
06/17/08Ghost15010ripplysmallthick1out&backpaintednormflex shaft & freehub11.7/11.2 = 11.4
06/17/08Ghost15010ripplysmallthick.7out&backpaintednormflex shaft & freehub. NO PROP STRUT
11.8/11.2 = 11.5
06/28/08U Kanan
15010waves, ripples,
some calm
smallthin7.19out&backpaintednormflex shaft11
06/28/08U Kanan1505ripples
smallthin1.19clock

flex shaft11.5
06/28/08U Kanan1505ripplessmallthin1.13counter

flex shaft11.5
06/28/08U Kanan15010waves, ripples
smallthin10.3giant loop of lake - counter


flex shaft11
06/28/08U Kanan12010waves, ripples,
smallthin10.1giant loop of lake - clock

flex shaft10.1
06/28/08U Kanan1205ripples

smallthin1clock

flex shaft10.5
06/28/08U Kanan1005ripplessmallthin1clock

flex shaft9.6
Observations
1. Every 5 kph of wind equates to .1 kph decrease in speed
2. Big rudder is .6 kph slower than small rudder. Small rudder is .1 kph slower than no rudder
3. Right hand turns dramatically slow the boat down.
4. Paint vs packing tape was worth a speed increase of .1 kph
5. Elliminating the prop strut is worth an additional .1 kph in speed.
6. Counter clockwise loops at Elbow Valley lake are worth an additional .2 to .3 kph average speed due to current (??? need to verify)
7. remove the seals and backing off the lock-nuts on the gear box are worth an additional .1 kph average speed.
8. The narrowed 1/4" spring steel shaft compared to the 3/8" stainless shaft is worth .1 kph speed increase





Labels: ,

Grizzlies and a freeprop



Our climb up the Highwood
-----------------------
Great training day on Friday with Dennis from Boulder CO and his friend Danfa from San Diego. We drove out to the start of highway 40, about 40 km east of Banff and cycled south about 150 km up and down the pass which is still closed to traffic until Sunday. It was a good, hard ride - they are both fairly experienced and capable cyclists and I was challenged to keep up with them climbing the pass. We saw mountain goats, big horn sheep and two Grizzlies.


Dennis and Dafna as we climb the Highwood pass


There is still plenty of snow at the top


Mama grizzly bear and her cub at the side of the road

----------------------------------------



The problem with using the 3/8 stainless rod as a flexible shaft for the pro is that it will eventually fail. Rick calculated the stresses for a number of different materials and I think in order for a fail-safe stainless shaft it would need to be something like 10 feet long. The alternative is to use 2011 T8 aluminum or spring steel. We can't get the 2011 aluminum anywhere and I found 1/4 inch spring steel from a flexible drill shaft manufacturer and purchased some from them.



It's 1/4" OD rather than 3/8", so none of the couplers that Manny machined for me will work, so I just welded a 3/8" stainless length to the end where the prop hardware slides onto. I would plan to ask Manny to machine some nice parts for me, but I wanted to make sure that the spring steel shaft would work first (the length, depth, feel, etc).



I wanted to see what riding with a free wheel would be like so I cut apart this old Shimano freehub that I had and coupled it to the shaft. Now the ride should be more like a road bike than a fixed gear and I should be able to coast a bit without having the stopped prop add so much extra drag. Again, Manny can machine some nice parts for me to mount the freehub, but I wanted to make sure that this freeprop was something that is worth even adding - not sure about that yet - I need to give it a try.


video

Labels: , ,

More tests


I was visited by Dennis and his friend Dafna from Boulder, CO and San Diego respectively. Dennis has been following my progress for a while and was interested in meeting me. Dafna is a member of the Dewalt cycling team. They were passing through Calgary and stopped in to meet me, so I seized the opportunity and dragged them out to the lake to help me through another round of tests.

Since the weather was not as crappy as it's been lately (rather than high wind, cold and rain we have high wind and cold), the test for today would be to see if the thicker prop doesn't start to stall when powering into a headwind. After Manny finished milling the prop, he finished it smooth and ended up removing about a mill too much of aluminum from the mid section of the airfoil on the prop. According to the prop data, if it is 1 mil too thin, then it will stall very quickly if if exposed to higher RPM's. The new prop that I wanted to test today is an extra prop with some small flaws on it that hasn't been polished smooth, and is still 3 mils thick.

It made no difference to my average speed at 150 watts around my circular course, and the wind was REALLY blowing hard.

I compiled all of my speed data including today's results into a table which I will start keeping:

date lake power watts wind kph waves rudder prop loop size km loop dir hull floats other SPEED kph
06/05/08 elbow 150 5 ripples big thin .5 counter taped norm
11.1
06/09/08 elbow 150 calm flat big thin .5 counter painted norm
11.2
06/09/08 elbow 150 calm flat small thin .5 counter painted norm
11.7
06/09/08 elbow 150 calm flat small thick .5 counter painted norm
11.7
06/09/08 elbow 150 calm flat small thin .5 counter painted norm prop strut pulled into hull with cord 11.6
06/09/08 elbow 150 calm flat none thin .5 counter painted norm
11.8
06/09/08 elbow 150 calm flat small thin .5 clock painted norm
11.1
06/09/08 elbow 150 10 ripply small thin .5 counter painted norm
11.5
06/12/08 elbow 150 20 waves big thin .5 counter painted norm
11.0
06/09/08 elbow 150 20 waves big thick .5 counter painted norm
10.9
06/09/08 elbow 150 20 waves small thick .5 counter painted norm
11.3
06/09/08 elbow 150 20 waves small thin .5 counter painted skimmers rods 10
06/09/08 elbow 150 20 waves small thin .5 counter painted skimmers no rods 10.2
06/16/08
elbow
150
calm
flat
small
thin
.5
counter
painted
norm
flex shaft & freehub
11.9
06/16/08elbow150calmflatsmallthin.5counterpaintednormflex shaft & freehub11.8
06/16/08elbow150calmflatsmallthin.5counterpaintednormflex shaft & freehub11.8
16/16/08elbow100
calm
flat
small
thin
.5
counter
painted
norm
flex shaft & freehub10.3
16/16/08elbow200calmflatsmallthin.5counterpaintednormflex shaft & freehub13.2
16/16/08Glenmore
150
calmflatsmallthin2
out&back
painted
norm
flex shaft & freehub11.1
16/16/08Glenmore150calmflatsmallthin2.6
out&back
paintednormflex shaft & freehub11.1
16/16/08Glenmore150calmflatsmallthin1.35
counter
paintednormflex shaft & freehub10.9
16/16/08Glenmore15010
ripply
none
thin
.84
counter
painted
norm
flex shaft & freehub11.6
16/16/08Glenmore15010ripplybig
thin
.8
counter
painted
norm
flex shaft & freehub11.1
Observations
1. Every 5 kph of wind equates to .1 kph decrease in speed
2. Big rudder is .6 kph slower than small rudder. Small rudder is .1 kph slower than no rudder
3. Right hand turns dramatically slow the boat down.
4. Paint vs packing tape was worth a speed increase of .1 kph


The other test we did was an idea from Warren Beauchamp who suggested that planing skimmers rather than displacement hull floats might be more efficient. He sent me instructions for building the skimmers that he made for his Necky kayak HPB. They are simply two strips of 1" thick Styrofoam. I was worried that they wouldn't provide enough buoyancy, so I added some pool noodle foam to the ends of the arms, but thin foam skimmers provided more than enough bouyancy without the pool noodles. I positioned the skimmers to just sit slightly above the water with the tails pushing down slightly to just below the water line. The tails were pushed down using two fiberglass tent poles.



At first they felt really nice - way lighter than the floats for sure. But the tips kept digging down into the water and I thought they were going to snap in half. We pulled the boat out and used duct tape to pull the skimmer tips back - it looked like what Santa would ride if he ever ditched his sled and went the human powered boat route. This worked very well, and I could get up to speed without any issues. My speed was pretty slow though - about 10 kph for the loop rather than 11.3 and I noticed that the tails were really dragging down into the water. We removed the tent poles and went for another run. This time the speed was 10.2 - not much better and probably not worth pursuing any further.



In this photo you can see the fiberglass tent poles
pushing the tails of the skimmers down into the water.

Overall, because of the high winds today my speeds were about .4 kph slower than when it was calm. Over 24 hours that would add up to about 9.6 km if I were able to maintain 150 watts for the entire 24 hours which wouldn't happen. Also, the winds typically start up in the afternoon and die down after 6:00 pm. If it was very windy for 8 hours of the 24 hour day, and I lost an average of .3 kph, I would loose a total of only 2.4 km. That's not as bad as I thought it would be.

Because I've done two wind tests, I can estimate that for every 5 kph of wind at 150 watts of power, it costs me .1 kph

Dennis going for a spin

Labels: ,

Rudder envy





I made a new rudder designed to keep the boat tracking straight. It is ridiculously tiny. The photo below does not do it justice. It's 1" wide, and it works like a charm. I found it very easy to make slow, gradual turns and keep the boat tracking in a straight line. Without any rudder at all, it wants to turn left, so this small little wonder works very well.



I also had the hull finished and painted. It is WAY smoother, and contrary to most of the advice I have been getting, is NOT responsible for any appreciable speed gains! I really don't think that at these speeds, surface finish is all that important.

The good news is that we are now very close to design specs for speed!


I found that the only way to get accurate speed/power data was by doing large GPS speed averaged loops around the perimeter of the lake. They are VERY accurate. I was able to repeat the same configuration more than once and get the exact same average down to .1 kph. I use an SRM power meter connected to the cranks, so I am able to output a constant power level and record my average speed over a set course with a GPS. Repeating this with small changes to the boat allow me to quantify the effect those changes have.

Here are the results of today's testing:
  • thin prop, large rudder, left hand loop, 150 watts, no paint on hull, packing tape on hull (test from last week) = 11.1 kph
  • thin prop, large rudder, left hand loop, 150 watts, painted hull = 11.2 kph
  • thin prop, tiny rudder, left hand loop, 150 watts, painted hull = 11.7 kph
  • thicker prop, tiny rudder, left hand loop, 150 watts, painted hull = 11.7 kph
  • thin prop, tiny rudder, left hand loop, 150 watts, painted hull, prop strut pulled close to the hull by a cord ( I wanted to see what would happen if we moved the prop closer to the hull) = 11.6 kph
  • thin prop, NO rudder at all, left hand loop, 150 watts, painted hull, = 11.8 kph
  • (I had to stop and start the GPS 2 times to paddle correct course, but I don't think it mattered)
  • thin prop, tiny rudder, RIGHT hand loop (counter to the way the boat naturally wants to steer), 150 watts, painted hull, = 11.1 kph (I had to use the dip steer rudder a couple of times to stay on course, but I still think this was slower because it went against the natural turn of the hull/prop)
  • thin prop, tiny rudder, left hand loop, 150 watts, painted hull, windy (small ripples on water) = 11.5 kph
The tiny little rudder worked very well for keeping a straight line, doing a gradual turn around the lake or for correcting my heading, but was useless for doing any kind of turns. I rigged up my old large rudder up with a spring and pull cord and hung it off the stern for when I needed to do big turns and it worked, but nowhere near as good as when that large rudder is under the hull turning in the rudder tube. I don't have a photo of it - I'll take one next time.

For general touring around and training, the large rudder in the rudder tube works fine. For the record attempt, and testing where I will steer around a large, gradual, round course, the small rudder works fine and I don't even need the dipping rudder.

Pulling the prop strut in tight to the hull using a cord did not do anything to correct the direction of thrust. In fact, I took a close look at the thrust direction when spinning the prop while held back to the dock and the thrust is very straight - I don't think that is the problem. I believe it is due to the thrust being at the side rather than right down the middle, and the cost of putting the thrust in the center would probably cost more than the couple of watts it probably costs now.

To summarize, the paint and body work added some weight because I had to add one washer to lift the outriggers, but the paint made it only .1 kph faster than packing tape, and the packing tape improvement over the unpainted hull wasn't quantified in the loop test, but the straight-line tests showed no difference. The small rudder compared to my large rudder is worth .6 kph (that's huge), and a bit of wind (maybe 10 kph) was worth a reduction of .2 kph. The wind effect could also be fairly significant because average wind speeds typically reach highs of 15 to 20 kph during mid afternoon around Calgary.



This is a cord we strapped to the rudder strut to pull it toward the hull. It didn't change the left steering tendency, and slowed it down (probably due to the drag of the cord) by .1 km/hr


Greg Bradley going for a spin

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A little Aussie magic

video
Greg at about 150 watts of power and 11.5 kph

Success! With Aussie Rick Willoughby's help, we narrowed down the source of the speed problems, and it wasn't at all what we thought.

Before I get into that - some additional good news: I finished a 207 km training ride with Chad on Wednesday and my Achilles tendon was fine! It seems to have solved itself, thank goodness! Now I can slowly resume ramping up my mileage.

Rick is from Melbourne, Australia and is visiting Canada with his wife Rhonda. The timing of his vacation worked out perfectly because my human powered boat is basically an attempt to recreate his design - a culmination of many years worth of experimentation, trial and error resulting in what we believe to be the most efficient human powered water craft on the planet for longer distances. I've been having some problems reaching the speeds we should be seeing, and Rick was able to spend a couple of days with me in Calgary trouble shooting.

A single rowing skull is probably faster over shorter distances, and there are a some pedal powered boats that use hydrofoils that are even faster than a rowing skull. The world record for 100 meters is 34.2 km/hr set by a hydrofoil and pedal powered air propeller boat called Decavitator. The current record for the most distance in 24 hours is held by Carter Johnson who paddled his conventional kayak 245 km around a rectangular course on a flat, calm lake. The Surfski kayak that Carter used is very efficient for longer distances, but we believe that our V11 pedal and propeller powered boat has a slight edge over Carter's kayak.

Rick arrived at my house early on Thursday morning with his propeller. He was hopeful that his 'known-good' propeller would make all the difference. Rick was also concerned about the surface finish of my hull, so to test that, we covered the hull with packing tape to smoothen it out. We figured that the combination of the smooth tape covered hull and his prop would get me my 12 kph at 150 watts of power that the boat was designed to produce.


We covered the hull with packing tape

Surprisingly, the speed was a bit SLOWER due to Ricks prop and the taped hull! The CNC machined aluminum prop Manny made for me was actually slightly better than Ricks hand made prop. Rick's prop was grippier because it was designed for power at a lower rpm, but the speed it produced at various power outputs was slightly less than my high rpm prop.

After a few hours of experimenting, the last thing we tried was to remove the rudder. All of a sudden I got a significant .5 kph speed jump! Ah ha. The boat tracked fairly straight without a rudder and I used a paddle to turn. My speed was up to 11 kph compared to 10.3 before.


Rick Willoughby working on the new
flexible shaft and super-thin prop strut


When we got back to the shop, we discussed reasons why the rudder might be the cause of this drag. Rick felt there was some unexpected interaction between my prop strut and the rudder. One difference between my boat and Rick's, is that Rick uses a curved flexible shaft rather than a rigid shaft with a U-joint. Rick calculated that we could temporarily substitute my rigid shaft for a flexible curved steel shaft to test out the elimination of the u-joint. I welded a couple of the shorter stainless shaft sections that I had together and we used a spare bearings tube that Manny made to rig up this very odd prop hanger. This is where the Aussie magic comes in, because if you saw this you would insist that it couldn't possibly work.

The prop hangs from the deck by a 1/16" thick (we're talking cardboard thickness here) by 1" wide flimsy strap of aluminum that has been filed down to a sharp point on both sides. Seriously - you can blow the prop under the hull with a good puff.


The reason this works is that the pusher prop is self stabilizing. When it starts to produce thrust, it maintains a level horizontal attitude and pushes against the angled shaft which forces it to curve up to the gear box. The cardboard prop strut isn't really even required aside from stopping the prop from slicing into the hull during turns.



On Friday morning the lake was calm again and we got some good tests in. The combination of the new flexible shaft and elimination of the rudder produced the best speeds yet of 11.5 km/hr. We put the rudder back in and the speed slowed to just above 11 km / hr. I did a double loop of the circumference of the lake and averaged 11.1 km/hr on exactly 150 watts of power with the rudder in.


The first thing I noticed about the flexible shaft is how smooth the pedalling action was - way better than with the U-joint. Without the rudder, the boat tracked slightly to port, so we thought that a very small fixed rudder would help keep the boat tracking straight. For turning and course corrections, we came up with a dipping rudder idea that would normally be out of the water when not being used. This way, there would be minimal drag when travelling straight forward.

For optimal efficiency, I need to find a very large and sheltered lake where I can plan a huge circular loop consisting of many very small turns.



What next?

I am pretty sure that with some fine-tuning I can get my average speed up to 12 km / hr on 150 watts of power. The hull is now being surface finished by Dave Albreight - a local composites expert who built the University of Calgary solar car. Once I install the new small directional stability rudder, and the dipping steering rudder, and shave some weight off of the outrigger floats, I should be able to maintain 12 km / hr over straight sections.

Here are a few drawings of the dipping rudder idea that will be used to steer about the buoy markers:





The record attempt

I know from experience using the SRM power meter, that I am capable of maintaining power output of 150 watts over 24 hours. If we can achieve the design specifications, then 150 watts will equate to 12 km/hr - or a total of 288 km which would be a whopping 43 km over the current record which is 245 km. Unfortunately, because of power output reductions and slow-downs due to corners, periodic short breaks from pedalling, etc, my real over-all average watts including the 0's recorded when not pedalling, slowly works it's way down to between 100 to 120 watts. I believe that my ending overall average when I set the 24 hour human powered vehicle record was 120 watts, and my average at last summers 24 hour pedal boat distance record was around 100 watts. My 100 watt average speed is 10 km/hr which would equal 240 km (just shy of a record), and my 120 watt average speed is 11 km/hr which would equal 264 km - 19 km over the current record.

Of course, these speed estimates are based on perfectly calm lake conditions with a minimum of speed-sucking turns. This means that I definitely need to find a large, very sheltered, windless lake to make a record attempt on.

I found a database of wind speed averages at the Canadian Wind Atlas web site:

Average wind speeds for Southern Alberta and BC. Click to enlarge

According to this map, my best chances of finding a windless lake is west of the great divide, or West of Banff in the shelter of the Rockie Mountains. Banff, Lake Louise, Field or Golden look good and they are not too far away from Calgary. Here are some photos and basic information for some possible lake venues:

Length: 2 km
Width: .5 km
Facilities: dock, hotel(s) near by
----------------------------------------------------------


Moraine Lake
Length: 1.25 km
Width: 200 meters
Facilities: canoe docks and Moraine Lake Lodge
Comments: too small
----------------------------------------------------------


Johnson Lake
Length: 1 km
Width: .25 km
Comments: too small
----------------------------------------------------------


Bow Lake
Length: 3.2 km
Width: 1.2 km
Facilities: Lodge on the lake
Comments: Big enough, but far from Calgary
----------------------------------------------------------


Vermillion Lake
Length: .5 km
Width: .5 km
Facilities: town of Banff near by
Comments: Too small and shallow
----------------------------------------------------------


Lake Minnewanka
Length: 24 km
Width: 1 km
Facilities: town of Banff near by
Comments: Very large, but possibly windy location.
----------------------------------------------------------


Length: 5.3 km
Width: 1.2 km
Facilities: town of Banff near by
Comments: large, but far from Calgary
----------------------------------------------------------


Length: 2.8 km
Width: .8 km
Facilities: nothing much near by
Comments: large, but far from Calgary
----------------------------------------------------------


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Another U-joint bites the dust

video

I was out on Elbow Valley lake for a 2 hour training spin, and test of the new steering rig, U-joint and a crazy idea I had for the prop.


I sanded down the hull again and was able to sand off some of the weave texture. I also spread a thin coat of micro on the port side of the bow and sanded it smooth. I don't want to do any more because: A. I hate sanding - can't stand it, and B. I'm afraid of making the surface finish worse due to my total lack of ability in that area, and refer to A; my very poor attitude toward surface finishing.


If the reason for the missing 12% speed is due to the surface finish of the hull, then wouldn't you think that I might measure just a tiny bit more speed today after a some sanding and a slightly smoother bow? I didn't see any speed improvements at all. It's possible that I need a glass-like finish all over the hull and I will pursue this regardless. I'm just not going to be the one to do it, I'll probably job that out to a body shop or something. I'm just not convinced that is the reason for my speed issues.

I do not think that the hull is deforming. I reached down today while she was in the water and I was still able to press the sides of the hull in with my hand - meaning they weren't already depressed due to the water pressure. Also a more careful visual inspection resulted in no deformation that I could see.


The other purpose of today's ride was to test out my steering handle. It is a bit awkward to hold onto the steering cables, so I rigged up an aluminum stick and it worked really well. There is enough tension on the hinge for the handle to keep the rudder exactly where I leave it, so steering is MUCH easier now. I can let go and the boat tracks perfectly straight.


This might sound silly, but I had a dream the other night that I solved the speed issues by adding my second prop to the existing prop at the end of the shaft. I tried that today just for the hell of it and it surprisingly had very little effect. I had BOTH props on forming an "x". My speed with both props at 100 watts was 9.2 km / hr compared to 9.3 km / hr with one prop (about the same) , but my cadence was 71 rpm compared to 78 rpm. There was no spinner on the trailing end of the double prop configuration which could have been worth the missing 1 km / hr (but that could easily be error - it was a bit windy and the lake wasn't as calm as the first Elbow test).


The bad news is that after only 2 hours my new U-joint donated to me by Curtis Universal broke! This is strange because it is rated for maximum static torque inch-lbs of 100. Both Manny and Rick think this should be strong enough.


Strangely, I didn't measure any significant difference in speed from the new narrow profile u-joint compared to the old draggy u-joint with the fat flanges.



This boat is very fast - don't get me wrong regarding my constant bitching about the speed. To provide some perspective, the winning human powered boat at last years Hydrobowl finished the two km time trial with an average speed of 9.36 km / hr. Power output for an average person for 20 minutes might be around 200 watts or so which would equate to an average speed of about 11.5 km / hr in my boat. To average the hydrobowl winning speed of 9.36 km / hr in my boat would take only about 100 watts. At 100 watts of output power, you might be able to do the whole 2 km time trial with one leg.

BUT, let me put that into further perspective for you: On May 18th Lewis Laughlin won the Epic Kayak Molokai World Championships - a 32 mile surf-ski kayak race across the Molokai channel between the islands of Molokai and Oahu. He averaged a whopping 14 km / hr for 3 hours, 40 minutes. The stretch of water between Molokai and Oahu isn't exactly mirror flat either.

I have some work to do!

A delivery guy just backed his van into my boat which was strapped to the roof-top carrier on the Suburban! He cracked the carbon near the stern, bent my rudder and forced the kayak cradle off of the roof rack. Idiot. And he wasn't even going to tell me about it. As I was signing for the delivery I noticed the boat was sitting DIAGONAL on the suburban. I looked at him and he fessed up to backing into it.

Oh - and one more thing (almost forgot!) - exciting news: My friend Roz Savage has departed for her Pacific ocean row from SanFransisco to Hawaii. I'll be following closely:

http://www.rozsavage.com/blog/

(I designed Roz's new logo for her)

gk



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leaky boat



I'm just not sure that hull deflection is the reason my V11 is 12% slower than Rick's version. Marc calculated that I should be able to approximate the water pressure on the skin by placing a 2.5 ' long by 4" wide board with a 13 lb weight on the hull between the bulkheads and observe the deflection.



When I took a closer look at how much the skin deflected, I realized that it doesn't move at all on the curved part of the hull which is almost the entire hull aside from a small section of flat side walls under the water line. My water line is about 4" below the deck, and the amount of flat wall on the hull below 4" is only an inch or so. Even if that area was deflecting, it would represent a very small and possibly insignificant portion of the entire hull in the water.



To test, I was going to seal up the edges of the deck with fiberglass tape and epoxy, then pressurize the hull with air to stop the sides from deflecting. Easier said than done.

I had to seal the edges anyhow because they leak water when waves splash on deck, so I figured that it was a job worth doing regardless. After I had sealed up the edges, I hooked up my compressor and there are a million tiny air leaks through the flange where the deck is taped to the hull - the glas stape and epoxy didn't seal it air-tight. They aren't leaky enough to be concerned with much water getting in (that is good), but they do prevent me from being able to keep enough air pressure in the hull to do a water test for hull deflection. To go around and fix all the leaks would be a major pain and I just don't want to do it.



Many of you suggested placing air bags into the hull. Now that the top deck is sealed on, I don't want to cut it back out to place air bags in!

The other solution to deflection that has been suggested is to run some carbon reinforcement ribs longitudinally between the perpendicular bulkheads. Again, I would have to cut open the top deck to get in there, and I don't really want to bother with the effort and additional weight if it isn't really required.

Another idea suggested was to fill the compartments between bulkheads up with expanding foam. The reason I didn't leave the Styrofoam plug in the hull was to save weight. Foam would add substantial weight to the hull and I do not think this option is worth the additional displacement that the increased weight would cause. The hollow shell with the deck on weighs less than 20 lbs and if possible, I would like to keep it that way. Adding ribs wouldn't increase the overall weight that much, but I don't want to cut the deck open to add the ribs if they end up doing nothing to increase me speed.



I do need to surface finish the hull - especially the first 6 feet or so. The surface is a bit rough and a thin application of micro with sanding would smoothen it out quite a bit. With the deflection of the side walls, I worry about being able to sand it flat.

One option that I am considering is to tip the boat on it's side, drill a small hole in the opposite side, then pour in a small amount of expanding foam. This foam would settle against the side wall and could provide enough additional structure to stop any deflection without adding too much weight. At least it would give me a more solid hull to micro and sand smooth. I could limit this foam wall to the first compartment which is about 6 feet from the tip of the bow to the first bulkhead.
My new super-strong stainless steel u-joints arrived yesterday. Manny did some research and found me a new u-joint that didn't have the draggy flange on it, and was rated to take the torque. I contacted Curtis Universal and it turns out that the President is a kayaker and really digs what I am doing, so he donated two of them to the project! That's pretty cool considering they are worth $130 bucks each! Thanks Curtis!

You can see the difference between the two joints in the photo above. I doubt that the more hydrodynamic Curtis U-joint is worth the missing 12%, but it will certainly help.

The next step is to try to somehow stiffen the side walls near the bow, then apply some micro and do some sanding to get the surface finish of the bow area smooth. Rick Willoughby is in Canada on a vacation with his wife, and is swinging by Calgary on Tuesday of next week. He brought his stainless steel prop with him, and we can substitute my prop for his and run a test to see if the culprit is my prop. I took a closer look at the prop today and it is very easy to bend by hand. Perhaps a thin aluminum prop isn't stiff enough to press back on the water as it spins at 400 rpm.

I have a sneaking hunch now that my problems could be due to the prop. Either it is too thick (Manny had to thicken it a bit to cnc machine), or it is too flexy.

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Photographic evidence!

I think we have a break in the case of the missing speed.


click to enlarge

I was thinking more about Cyrille's comments (and others) about the hull skin deforming under the pressure of the water. The hull is made from 2 layers of 5.8 oz carbon and 1 layer of 6 oz carbon/Kevlar weave plus a final layer of 4 oz fiberglass. It's pretty thin - you can cut it with scissors. To add stiffness, I added 6 bulkheads running down the length of the hull:


You can easily indent the hull between bulkheads with a bit of pressure from your fingers. I didn't think that the water pressure could depress the skin because the pressure is distributed evenly around the hull. Imagine pressing one finger into an inflated balloon and then imagine evenly distributed pressure happening from all around the balloon.

I decided to see if I could find any evidence of deformation from the photos, and low and behold - I think I found something. It is very, very slight, but everywhere I thought I could see the water line moving away from a smooth, gradual curve was exactly between where the bulkheads are. I believe that the water is indeed depressing the skin between the bulkheads.

I have an idea how to easily confirm this. I can pressurize the hull with enough air to keep the sides from depressing in (any idea how much air pressure would be required?). First, I need to add some fiberglass tape and epoxy around the edge of the deck flange to seal off the leaks. When it is choppy, water washes over the bow and water leaks into the hull from gaps at the edges of the deck. Once this edging is on, and a few very small pin holes are filled with epoxy, the hull should be air-tight.

I would think that I could pressurize the inside of the hull with a bicycle pump, then quickly hop on for a speed test.

Wait a sec.... If the air pressure isn't enough to stop the deformation, or if I can't get it air-tight enough to hold pressure permanently, how will I get back under the deck to add additional reinforcement to the skin if I have already taped up the edges? I guess if I determine that air pressure would be enough to stop the skin from indenting, then I am sort of committed to that solution once I add my edge tape. Any other ideas?



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A good test!


Human powered boat lake test from Greg Kolodziejzyk on Vimeo.



This morning presented a VERY good environment for testing, and I think I learned a lot. Unfortunately though, she is still not any faster...

I met my brother in-law Cyrille out at the Elbow Valley community lake at 7:30 this morning before the wind started to blow the lake apart. The lake was mirror flat and it ended up being the perfect place to test, as it was easy to do a quick loop, pull the boat up to the dock, make a change and do another quick loop. There was no wind and no current, so the need to repeat every test with an averaged 'out and back' trip wasn't required. I would do a 100 watt 'out' leg, turn around and do a 150 watt 'return' leg back to the dock.

click to enlarge

Rick was exactly right about the self stabilizing features of a pushing propeller. The additional strut that I added to better support the prop actually INCREASED the vibration and made the boat slower due to the drag of that strut. It was faster and vibrated less when I removed the addition. In fact, we found that we could leave the prop strut bracket just sitting on the deck without any fasteners holding it in place, and the prop would still push the boat as fast as it would when the prop bracket was screwed down to the hull.

The additional prop strut was tested and removed

We also found that slight pitch changes to the prop made very little difference to the speed. Neither did slight changes to the direction (right to left) of prop thrust. I brought some clamps with me and we clamped the prop strut bracket down to the deck flange in a variety of different positions which changed the position of the prop. None of these off-center positions made much of a difference to the speed unless it was greatly exaggerated. We also changed the depth of the prop and that also made no difference. This leads me to believe that my prop is OK - it is producing exactly the right power at exactly the right rpm that it was designed to do, and it is able to do it consistently in various configurations. It seems pretty robust and if something in the drive system were responsible for the slower than expected speeds I would expect that the changes we were making today would have a far greater result than they did.


Using my spare prop, I decreased the degree of twist a bit (sorry Manny!). We mounted the 'more grippy' prop to the shaft and it was far less efficient. I produced more power at lower RPM, but the resulting speeds were all lower. Probably due to the inaccuracy of twisting the prop in a vice with wood blocks and a clamp. At least I know now, that the prop Rick designed and Manny CNC machined, is working perfectly as it was designed to.

So, here is where I am at:

1. The speed I need to break Carters record of 245 km in 24 hours is an average of 10.2 km / hr.

2. My average power output over 24 hours (including breaks, coasting, and zeros, etc) is 110 watts.

3. According to Ricks design and his V11, 110 watts should produce 10.8 km / hr which would result in a total of 259.2 km

4. Currently, my version of Ricks V11 goes 9.4 km / hour on 110 watts of power which would equal a total distance of 225.6 km which would be about 20 km short of Carters record.

5. At 150 watts of power, I am currently getting 10.5 km / hour and I am supposed to be getting 12 km / hr. I am about 12.5% slower than Ricks V11 design.

I now know that my lack of speed is probably NOT due to the drive or prop, but probably due to hull drag. The fastest I have been able to go is a little over 11 km / hr and the power required was over 200 watts. Input power over 200 watts produces very little additional speed. Rick can get his V11 up to 16 km / hr! This alone tells me that the drag of my hull, or overall drag is probably the culprit. Here is a speed/power plot - notice that my entire curve is lower than Ricks, which to me, suggests that the reason I am slower is due to my hull speed being lower which could be due to additional drag.


One of the causes of this additional drag could be the outriggers. I am finding it very difficult to balance off of the outriggers. Rick is on vacation right now, so he is unable to offer advice. I played around with trying to balance on the center hull today and found it very hard - even with my new low seat position. We played around with raising and lowering the outriggers and I could not get the boat balanced. You can see in the video that almost always, one outrigger is dragging through the water. The extra drag from this outrigger could be slowing me down, but is it responsible for the missing 12 % ?

Balancing act

Another cause of drag is the flanges on the u-joint that I am currently using. I have ordered a new u-joint that is the same diameter as the shaft and I will replace the fat draggy one when it arrives.


The last refinement regarding drag that need to look at, is the surface finish of the hull. It is far from perfectly smooth, and I wonder if the surface texture of the carbon fabric weave as well as a few bumps and wobblies could be responsible for my missing 12 percent? Also, one of Cyrille's concerns was that the skin of the hull is very thin, and between bulkheads you can depress the hull with your hands. I wonder if the water would have enough force to push the sides in and distort the hull shape? I wonder how I can test for this deformation?

We even placed rocks on the bow and stern to see if weight distribution made any difference. It made it slower.

Click to enlarge

Cyrille enjoying a spin

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More mods, attempt at testing


I finished all my mods yesterday. What a BUSY, busy day! I can't believe I accomplished what I was able to do in just one day. My goal was to add some additional structure to the prop strut to stop it from vibrating, add a bushing half way down the shaft to stop it from vibrating, to lower my seat down to the deck, and to make a new mount for the outriggers (my old mount used the seat frame, and this is now cut off to lower the seat). I wanted to get the work finished and get out to the lake to test it all because I am out of town for the weekend and wanted to take advantage of the good weather.

I finished all my work by 4:00 pm. We were enjoying Calgary's first stellar spring day with high temperatures nearing 29 degrees C and no clouds in sight. But as luck would have it, by the time I got to the lake the wind started howling and the lake was covered with whitecaps. Everything I made seemed to work fine, but measuring speed and power was useless because of the waves. I was getting soaked and blown all over the place.

I hope to test these mods again next week, but even in the waves and wind, she didn't seem appreciably faster.

This prop strut brace is a 2" wide strip of aluminum that is fared to a taper on both sides. It wraps around the hull and is screwed to the main strut about half-way down. I also lowered the prop an additional 2" This was enough additional support to keep the prop from vibrating while spinning in the air. I know that I am adding some drag, but for now, I am looking for a large step in speed. When I find it, then I'll know what the culprit was and I can back-track and re-work things to refine it.


I added this nylon spherical rod end that I had. The 3/8" shaft fit perfectly through the ball. This did a great job in stopping the shaft from vibrating. It is located just high enough that it should be above the water line, so it shouldn't contribute to drag. However, in the wind, waves and chop from my test yesterday, it was definitely getting wet.

Note how aggressive the new seat position looks! Very low and mean. The reason for lowering the seat was to lower my center of gravity to make balancing on the center hull easier. During my brief test, the position felt really good - about the same position that I use on my M5 recumbent training bike, but I have no idea of it's effect on staying balanced as I was getting tossed around quite a bit.

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A bit faster, but not there yet


It was the perfect day - high of around 18 degrees C and dead flat calm during the morning. I finished all of my little fixes to the boat yesterday, and headed out to Glenmore Reservoir early this morning to test the boat again.



I climbed into my seat, kicked her off the dock and started to pedal when the the new U-joint that I had just welded onto the shaft snapped in two! Luckily I always ride with a paddle and was able to make it back to the dock. I drove home, picked up my old shaft with the big fat draggy U-joint on it and drove back to the lake. I installed the old shaft and headed back out.


Disappointing speeds again. Faster than Mondays test, but still not as fast as she needs to be to challenge the current 24 hour human powered distance record of 245 km.

I need to make something clear because I am getting a lot of advice (thanks - it's always appreciated) about what to do and what not to do, etc. There is almost zilch 'research' on this project. I am building a COPY of Rick Willoughby's V11 human powered boat. He has spent years doing the concepting, building, testing, and experimenting. I don't need to do any of that. All I need to do is copy exactly what he has already built and I *should* be able to match his performance numbers.

Here is a YouTube video of Rick pedalling his V11 to 16 km / hr !!!!



Rick's V11
100 watts = 10.4 km / hr

My V11G (on Monday)
100 watts = 8.8 km / hr

My V11G (Today)
100 watts = 9.2 km / hr

My cruising power for a 24 hour event is 150 watts which should equate to 12 km / hr and my current speed at 150 watts is 10 km / hr - 20% slower. If I were to maintain an overall average of 100 watts for 24 hours straight, I could cover about 250 km in Ricks V11, but that would equate to only 220 km in the current state of my V11G which would be 25 km short of Carter Johnson's record.


We need to figure out why my V11 is slower than Ricks. My V11 isn't *exactly* the same, so lets take a closer look at the differences and see if there are any clues to my missing speed:

1. My V11G is lighter than Ricks because the hull was made from Carbon. The weight of the hull with the seat and everything is 39 lbs (the 24 foot long hull alone is lighter than moat racing bikes at 19.5 pounds!). The outriggers are an additional 7 pounds for a total weight of 46 pounds. This means less displacement which should result in FASTER speeds, not slower!

2. My seat position is higher than Ricks. At 11 km / hr, the boat should balance on the center hull with the outrigger just lightly skipping on top of the water. Since I have yet to reach 11 km / hr, I can't seem to get my hull to balance on the center hull. To compensate for my higher center of gravity with the higher seat, I extended the outrigger arms to 8 feet (from 6 feet). This made it a bit easier to balance, but I found that I was still sort of rocking from one outrigger to the next. When it was super calm and flat out, I was able to get a few rides that I felt were very light on the outriggers, but it didn't make an appreciable difference to me speed. The reason my seat position is higher is that I have had foot numbness issues with a lower seat. When my heart is above my feet, I don't seem to get the numbness.

3. Rick is using spring steel for his shaft and no U-joint. We designed my version of the boat to use a U-joint and stainless steel shaft because in theory it should be slightly more efficient than the spring steel. That said, I could see and feel some pretty wicked vibration in my shaft under the water. This doesn't seem right and it seems that there would be efficiency losses through this vibration. The shaft vibrating is also shaking the prop around, and I can feel this vibration in the boat at higher speeds. It might be worth a test to place a support on the shaft at mid point to stop the vibration, and perhaps an angled fin to better support the prop.

When I spin the cranks and turn the prop when the boat is out of the water, the shaft and prop vibrate and shake wildly. Rick says this shouldn't happen under the water because a pusher prop is self stabilizing. When spinning the air, there is not enough resistance for the prop and it doesn't self stabilize. During my observation of the prop spinning in the water, this does not seem to be happening, as the prop and shaft are still vibrating - not nearly as much as in air, but still, something is definitely different with set up. Perhaps it is with the stainless shaft and U-joint.

Rick has a prop that doesn't have a strut! The prop is so stable that it pushes the boat against the spring steel shaft alone!

I ave also noticed that the prop when pushing water, seems to twist a bit to push to the starboard side. It is hard to observe this because the lake water is very cloudy, and it could be an optical illusion, but it appears that as soon as I start pedalling and spinning the prop, that it starts to twist the strut and rather than thrusting directly back, it pushing slightly to the right. When I am moving in a straight line forward, it feels like the boat is tracking slightly to the right. If I let the rudder go, the boat does a slow turn to the right. If the prop was pushing slightly to the right, then it would be pushing the back of the boat to the left which would cause the bow to make a slow right hand turn.

Perhaps providing a support for the shaft will resolve this, or maybe i need to add another triangulated strut to the prop bearing tube.

4. We had Manny at Rhomec Industries here in Calgary CNC machine a custom aluminum prop for me. In theory, this prop should be more efficient than a hand made stainless version because it is almost perfect (it is a true work of art!). Maybe the aluminum is too soft and it is warping under the water. My prop was designed for my cadence of 90 rpm at 150 watts compared to Ricks prop at 80 rpm for 150 watts. This means that my prop is spinning faster. Maybe there is something unexpected happening with that higher rpm? Like some unforeseen cavitation issue or something - I don' know. It would be worth it to exchange the prop for my old stainless hand-made prop from WiTHiN. I believe the rpms were the same - need to check that.

5. Water temperature Warren found this for me regarding the difference in drag of 30 degrees C water temperature: 0.8 KPH with a 30 degree temp spread (20.3868 KPH at 0 degree C to 21.1104 KPH at 30 degrees C). Rick's V11 was tested in the warm Australian waters near Melborne where he lives, and the ice on Glenmore reservoir just melted. That could account for maybe 1/2 kph which is fairly substantial.


To top it all off, my Achilles tendon started to get sore after only 2 hours on the water yesterday! Ugh! It used to take 5 hours at easy effort to cause pain, and now it's down to 2 hours. I have been really taking it easy on the Achilles over the past 10 days. I've been using my ultrasound and applying anti-inflam cream every day. It would seem that the reduction in activity is counter productive to recovery.

The other problem I had at the lake yesterday was repeated chain derailments! I hate those! Luckily, it's an easy fix, but I need to add a chain guide.

I also ran aground yesterday! That is a freaky feeling. The water level in the reservoir is still low and there is a large area to the west where the river feeds into the reservoir and it can get very shallow there. I hadn't realized how far to the west I was when my prop suddenly struck the dirt! Yikes! Luckily, I had my paddle on board and I was able to paddle east and back into deep water. I need to check my prop for damage.

Well, I've got some work to do. I'm planning on getting as much of these changes done today as possible and getting back out to the lake this afternoon. It's supposed to be in the mid 20's today, and I have to take advantage of this weather.

Stay tuned...



Manny from Rhomec made me these neat little brass busings for the rudder.
Plus, I filled and smoothened in the welds



This is the narrower, less draggy u-joint. Good in theory but it failed
immediately at the ball bearings joint




You can see a small pulley on my frame used to tension the steering cable.
It worked very well.

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Lake test!

New 24 hour record boat lake test







Well, the good news is that it floats and generally works well. Very smooth pedaling action, very stable and quite comfortable. The less than good news is that it performed much slower than expectations which means I have more work to do.




Stefan messaged me yesterday that the ice is now melted at the reservoir and the docks are now in, so I finished up the last details of the boat and my buddy Greg B and I headed out to the Glenmore Reservoir with the boat on the roof of the Suburban.

Compared to WiTHiN, this new boat is very easy to haul around. The hull weighs only 19.5 lbs. With all the hardware, seat and frames, etc I think it weighs in at around 40 lbs.


The outrigger floats bolt onto a 1" square aluminum arm that is U-bolted to the seat frame.

The water is VERY cold. A few days ago it was frozen, so I wasn't going to take any chances with safety. I strapped a paddle on the deck in case my drive failed, and had two-way radio communication with Greg. The emergency phone for the patrol boat is right there at the dock, and the patrol boat was out on the water, so if something did happen and I lost my drive and the paddle wasn't working, or went for an unplanned swim, the patrol boat wouldn't have been far away.


At first, I found it quite difficult to balance without falling over onto one or the other outrigger. According to the design, when I reach a cruising speed of around 10 to 11 kph, I can balance on the main hull with the two outriggers lightly skimming on the water. The outrigger level is adjustable with the U-bolts and I found that if they were two high, then I would flop from one side over to the other, so I had to lower them quite far which was creating additional drag.


Low speed expectations were for a cadence of 75, wattage output of 89 watts, and resulting speed of 10 km/hr. Actual wattage at 75 rpm was 100 watts and 8.8 km/hr (and that was WITH the wind). This is FAR slower than it should be and points to excessive drag as being the problem.

Items that need to be 'tightened-up':

1. The outrigger positions need to be adjusted. I notice in the photos that the attitude of the floats is nose-up and they really need to be level. I also need to ensure that they are both pointed directly forward and this isn't something that I measured previously, so they could be off.

2. Rick thinks that because my seat position is higher, I might require a wider stance for the floats to make it easier to balance on the main hull. I am going to add 2 feet of length to the outrigger arms to extend that moment arm.

3. My rudder is WAY too loose in it's tube. The carbon tube is 7/16" ID and the aluminum steering rod is 3/8" diameter. Manny is making me a plastic bushing to make the fit tighter. The rudder was vibrating in the tube quite a bit and also because the fit was so loose, the rudder was flapping back and fourth a lot. I found it very difficult to hold the rudder steady with my two steering lines. This flapping back and fourth was probably creating quite a bit of drag.

4. I have not faired the rudder with micro yet. The rudder is a 1/4" aluminum plate welded to a 3/8" diameter aluminum tube. I grinded down the plate to form the trailing edge of a NACA0020 airfoil (photos below), but have not yet filled the weld gaps with fairing compound.

5. The U-joint that I am using on the drive shaft is the back-up U joint and I think it is creating quite a bit of drag due to the fat flange on it. I have another u-joint that is being repaired by Manny right now that I will exchange for this one. This will make a small difference.

6. To test other components to make sure they are working properly, I have a spare prop from WiTHiN that I could mount on this boat to make sure that the prop is working as designed. I think it is because the resistance I'm getting at rpm is close to design specs and point to additional drag. I also have a second SRM that I will swap out to double check that I am getting the right measurements for power.

Here are some photos of some of the details:


This is my prop strut. I had faired it with an aerofoil leading and trailing edge, but this is not right, and something that I need to fix. The lowest drag fin is a sharp taper on both sides. When I first measured the prop depth and bent the aluminum plate, I positioned it too low. To raise it up I added a couple of spacers. This will allow me to experiment with different positions. Note the FAT U-joint

I welded a 1/4" aluminum plate to my 3/8" aluminum rudder rod, then ground it down to approximate a NACA0020 aerofoil.


I still need to fair in the join with some micro


The rudder is controlled with two lines running to a couple of eye bolts that I welded to the a collar.

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24 hour record boat progress

Big progress over the last couple of days. It is Saturday morning now, and I am pretty sure that tomorrow she will be ready for her maiden voyage if I can find some unfrozen chunk of lake somewhere.

Here are a pile of images showing progress over the last few days:

My buddy Manny from Rhomec Industries contributed this jewelry for the suped up pedal boat. Two complete drive units consisting of a CNC machined propeller from Rick Willoughby's computer file, a bearing tube that hold two glass bearings, an aluminum nose cone, tail cone, U-joint and 3/8" shaft that runs to a coupler that is connected to the MitrPak right angle gear box.

Manny made me some interchangeable gears for the gear box. These collars will hold any standard Shimano rear cassette gear.

This is the MitrPak right angle gear box with a 13 tooth gear mounted on the input shaft and the 6 foot long prop shaft mounted with a coupler onto the output shaft of the gear box.

This is my seat frame sitting on the top deck of the boat hull. I was able to fit the hull into my shop, but the bow and stern are jammed into two corners of the room.

This is the rudder tube after I added the additional carbon reinforcement layers


The rudder tube bonded to the rear bulkhead


Before the top deck went on, I filled the compartments with water to check for leaks

Water filled compartment in the hull

Some very small leaks. I am going to pressurize the hull with air (with the top deck on) and wash soapy water over the hull and look for bubbles which I will mark. Then using a bit of vacuum pressure, I will apply epoxy to the pin holes that were marked from the soap test to fill the holes. We are going to spray a final coat of paint on her, so that will definitely help seal her up.


This is the deck after it was removed from the vacuum bag. We used CoreCell core material + 1 layer of 5.8 oz carbon on the top and 1 layer of 5 oz fiberglass on the back.


The deck has been bonded to the hull using a bit of micro and some epoxy. I clamped the deck onto the flange at first, but we got more even pressure around the flange using weights and duct tape.


Ben is filling my outriggers with expanding foam




Temporary setup showing the seat and pedals







The drive unit is mounted to the seat frame and everything is temporarily clamped to the deck. It all worked!

The SRM power meter chain ring with Dura Ace chain running to a 14 tooth gear on the Mitrbox gear box.

I welded a 2" wide, 1/4" thick aluminum plate to the bearings tube, then bent it. It will be bolted to the flange.


Top view of the boat

The gear box is mounted to the seat frame with a 1/4" thick aluminum plate welded to the seat frame. The slotted holes allow me to tension the chain.

The 6 foot long, 3/8" stainless steel shaft runs from the gear box down to a U-joint which is connected to a short shaft which runs through the tail cone, bearing tube holding two glass bearings, the prop and finally the nose cone (spinner). I still need to fair the strut with a grinder. The large flanges on the U-joint is my back-up U-joint. I am able to make 2 complete sets of drives - the main drive will use a small 3/8" diameter u-joint which could be the weak point of the whole drive. For the back-up unit, I decided to use the larger U-joints.


This is what I am dealing with in the middle of May! All the lakes around Calgary are still frozen over. Stefan was telling me that this is the first time in over 20 years that the reservoir hasn't opened during the first week of May.


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Training woes, and 24 hour record boat progress

Progress updates:

You can now follow my micro updates by subscribing to the PedalTheOcean Twitter feed. I am thinking of updating this feed during the 24 hour record attempt every hour. The advantage of following a Twitter feed is that you can choose to receive updates on your cell phone, text messages, email or follow using the Twitter web site, the AdventuresOfGreg web site (upper right hand corner), or my FaceBook page (status updates).


As with everything in life there is always give and take, pros and cons, good with the bad. Very seldom is anything easy and straight forward. The new 24 hour record attempt human powered boat build is going really great - too great in fact. Something needed to offset all this great progress and that something is the Greek sea-god Achilles.

My Achilles tendon on my right leg is swollen and very, very sore and is becoming an issue for me.

My weekly long training rides alternate between an ultra-long, but moderate paced ride which progressively grows longer each 2nd week as I near the record attempt date and a 5-hour, very intense, hard ride. Today's 5 hour ride was supposed to average 200 watts and I made it to 3 hours and had to quit because my Achilles tendon was too sore.

It's been getting worse over the last few weeks and I continue to hope that it will just disappear. Last weeks 10 hour training ride outside with my buddy Greg Bradley was very painful for the last 4 hours of the ride. Today, I didn't make it past 3 hours. I need to get this problem resolved!!!

My buddy Chad who is an Ironman triathlete and also an MD, suggested I purchase this cool portable home ultra sound device called Sonic Relief:

I've been using it aggressively in combination with a topical anti-inflammatory cream and it seems to reduce swelling. I will keep at it.

What I really need to do is to give my foot a break for a couple of weeks to allow the Achilles to heal, but I am afraid that I will lose too much fitness and won't be able to stick to my scheduled 24 hour human powered boat distance record attempt for late June. We have a pretty busy summer, so it will be tough trying to schedule the record attempt for July or August.

Since postponing the Atlantic crossing until December of 2009, I now have time for other athletic pursuits, so I signed up for Ironman Arizona in November. I really have to get this 24 hour record attempt done and finished with by July at the latest so I can recover and switch training focus back to Ironman. My goal for Ironman in November is to make it back to World Championships in Kona! I have a special reason for going back to Kona, Hawaii in October of 2009 - more on that at a later date.

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24 hour record boat progress


Above is a computer model of what the new boat will look like. Click to enlarge. My recumbent seat sits on a 10" wide, hollow carbon fiber hull that is 24 feet long. There are two, light weight carbon outriggers for balance that typically sit a few inches ABOVE the water line while underway. My forward momentum should be enough to keep the narrow main hull balanced without the extra drag of the outriggers.





The main hull is 2 layers of 5.8 oz carbon fiber + 1 layer of 6 oz carbon+Kevlar weave. To add stiffness and strength, I inserted six bulkheads which I cut out from a left-over section of the carbon fiber sandwich board frame for Critical Power. I think it is cool to have part of Critical Power in this boat. (Critical Power is the name of my human powered vehicle that I set a 24 hour distance record with in the summer of 2006).


I kept the cut-out sections of this sandwich board frame for Critical Power
and used them for the bulkheads for the new boat



I was very surprised when I weighed the hull with the outriggers because it was one pound LESS than when I pulled it off the mold. Even with the carbon bulkheads bonded in, it is only 13.5 pounds. It will weigh more when the top deck is on, but this is a good start!



You can see the Kevlar (gold) with the carbon weave.
Kevlar will prevent the hull from ripping apart if it is holed.




The top deck will be a 24 foot long piece of closed cell foam core called CoreCell. CoreCell is what we are building the new ocean crossing boat WiTHiN out of.



The CoreCell will be covered with 1 layer of carbon each side, then cut to fit onto the flange of the hull.



The short sections of CoreCell are joined with tabs that are epoxied over the seems. This should also provide a bit more stiffness to the top deck.

The rudder tube is an old carbon tube that I had. It wasn't quite strong enough, so I reinforced it with a wrap of carbon. After the carbon went onto the tube, I wetted it out with epoxy resin, then wound a tight layer of electrical tape around it. I poked holes in the electrical tape to allow excess epoxy to seep out.



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The new 24 hour record attempt!!!

24 hour human powered boat record:



This boat is going to be fiendishly fast!

First you have to check out this work of art that my buddy Manny from Rhomec Industries made for me:





It's the aluminum prop, spinner, bearing tube and fairing cones for the drive for the new 24 hour record attempt boat. VERY SWEET!

I want to keep the exact configuration of the drive unit proprietary for a little while, so I'm not posting any drawings of it here. I am aware of another group who has indicated to me that they plan on challenging my 174 km pedal boat record from last summer and I don't really want to give away any of our secrets just yet. I am not **repeat NOT** attempting to break my own 174 km pedal boat record - I am attempting to break Carter Johnson's 245 km kayaking record! I am aware that there is a big spread between 174 km and 245 km, and this boat that was designed by Rick Willoughby is capable of at least 245 km in 24 hours. If I am able to go farther than 245 km in 24 hours on a flat lake, then it will be the farthest any person has ever travelled in 24 hours on water under their own power.


Rick is helping with design and engineering direction, Manny from Rhomec is contributing his wicked machining skills to make the prop and drive unit parts, the right angle gear drive was donated by my buddy George and PedalTheOcean sponsor MitrPak, and my right hand man Ben is helping out in the shop. I'll have a cast of other friends helping with officiating, observing and other help like last year - it is TRULY a collaborative effort and I am VERY grateful for all of the support these friends are providing.

My original intention was to invite Carter Johnson to Calgary and stage a race and possibly a new world record by either Carter or I. I'm not sure that is going to work because lake conditions for a record need to be nearly perfect - very calm and flat water. That means I need to race on a day with little to no wind which means that I can't schedule an exact date for the record attempt. My intention is to be ready to go and watch the weather closely, then when a suitable weather window opens up, just DO IT.

Ben came over today and we made some progress on the main hull. This hull is 24 feet long and 9" wide at it's widest point. The Styrofoam plug was CNC machined by Jarrett Johnson in Saskatchewan and delivered to me in 4 parts. I had to build a 24 foot long FLAT table to place the hull onto deck side down.

I am going to use the same composite layup method that I used for one of the outriggers - that is to cover the entire foam hull with packing tape, lay down the carbon, wet it out with epoxy and vacuum bag & cure for 8 hours. Then pull the carbon hull OFF the foam hull. The thin carbon shell will then be reinforced with some bulkheads and a thin sandwich panel deck will be bonded to the top.

I did this for one of the outriggers and it worked, but there were millions of pin holes in the 2 layers of 6 oz carbon I put on. These holes leaked water like a sieve - not exactly what you want for a boat. For the main hull, we are letting a base coat of epoxy on the taped hull get semi-hard before applying the carbon and wetting out. I am also applying two additional layers of composite fabric - 2 layers of 5.8 oz carbon weave, 1 layer of 6 oz carbon/Kevlar weave and an outside layer of 5 oz fiberglass for sanding. I am also going to apply LESS vacuum pressure this time which won't suck out all the epoxy through the fabric which leaves the nasty pin holes.


Ben and I are pulling a length of string tight to make sure that the
4 foam sections are assembled in a STRAIGHT line


We covered the foam plug with packing tape. When the carbon cures,
I can pull the boat hull right off the foam plug leaving the foam plug for future use.