First double century ever! 200 miles / 320 km, making a quick wire frame fairing from the mold and cutting out the final frame perimeter.
I've wanted to do this ride for years and since I am now in the long distance training mode and the weather was looking good for the weekend, I figured this would be a good time to give this 320 km monster ride a shot. Here is a map of the loop:
I started at my house at 7:30 am, about a half hour after sunrise and headed west on the Trans Canada to Highway 40. I turned South on the 40 and into the most spectacular scenery (IMHO) in the Canadian Rockies - Kananaskis and Peter Lougheed Provincial parks. Then I climbed the highest paved road in Canada - the 7200 foot Highwood pass. On the way up I passed a moose and cycled right through the middle of a heard of loitering big horn sheep hanging out on the highway (not much traffic). The trip down was fast and fun to my first stop at the Highwood House gas station where I refilled my water and got something to eat. After the 15 minute break I headed east to Longview where I met up with Jason Yanota who lives out that way and was doing a training ride. He accompanied me to Millerville It was great to have someone to talk to at that point, as I was getting pretty tired.
After Jason left me, I headed North to Bragg Creek and passed the time listening to a new audio book on my Ipod shuffle "The Traveler".
I arrived home at around 8:00 pm feeling surprisingly good. It was a total of 12 1/2 hours but that included a lunch stop, various pee stops, a stop while I helped Jason fix a flat and a long pause while I chatted with Matt - a friend who was driving by and stopped to say hi. Riding time was 11:53, total mileage was 320 km or 200 miles. I spent most of my time between 150 and 160 watts, my overall average watts was a piddly 120 and my average speed ended up at a bit less than 28 kph.
On Thursday I went over to LaserSpec - the temporary home of my 2000 pound fairing mold. I was trying to figure out a way to capture an impression of the mold so that I can place it over the frame to check for feet clearances (and shoulders, etc, etc). What I ended up doing was heating up strips of Sintra plastic and taping them to the inside of the mold cavity. I joined them together to make a sort of wire-frame impression of the inside shape of the mold.
Then I placed a sheet of 1/16" thick PETG clear plastic over the mold, taped it down tight and carefully traced the exact outline of the mold.
I copied the PETG template over to the frame and used the Sintra wire frame to get the position exactly right. Then I cut out the final perimeter of the frame.
Here are the details:
|1. A heat gun quickly softens 1" wide strips of 1/8" thick Sintra. I used duct tape to hold them together.|
|2. I placed the bird cage over the frame and adjusted the position right/left and top bottom so that everything fit properly.|
|3. Here is the Sintra bird cage.|
|4. This is the clear sheet of PETG that I used to trace the outline of the fairing mold. I drew a new line 1/8 " inside the actual cutout to allow for the fairing shell thickness and the thickness of the carbon layers that still have to go onto the perimeter of the frame.|
|5. To cut the PETG, just score with a knife, then tear it|
|6. This shows the PETG template on the frame with the wireframe. Yet another check just to make extra, extra sure before I cut the shape out.|
|7. This is the frame after cutting the final shape with a jig saw. I used a hand sanding block to smoothen out the cut, and to make sure that the cut on each side of the frame were square.|
|8. The carbon fiber bullet|
|9. Another check with the wire frame in position|
|10. Tight tolerances My toe is about 1/8" away from the fairing!|
|11. I gouged out some foam over the top area of the frame because after I cut the final shape out, it looked very thin. I will need to lay in more carbon in this area to stiffen it up.|
Still to do:
1. Add a rear caliper brake3. Edge laminate the perimeter
2. Trace the real perimeter outline using an actual fairing half shell (when I get one!), and cut out the perimeter
4. Thicken the frame to avoid using the spacers on the brackets6. Make new remote steering out of carbon and UHMW
5. Bond in the bottom brackets
7. Bond on the right hand rear wheel dome.
8. Bond fasteners to frame for the left hand wheel dome9. Add a thin coat of epoxy to the left hand wheel disc because it is not air tight (and fill holes in the dome)
10. New carbon fork??
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