Aug 30

August 30, 2005

Further seat adjustments and the video monitor

In an attempt to get the M5 seat position exactly the same as the new carbon frame, I pulled the M5 seat off and made some seat lifters from an aluminum tube (visible directly under the M5 seat bottom in the above photo). I couldn't lower the top of the seat at all because the seat back is touching the brake.

As you can see from the photos, there are very close, but not perfect yet. The red lines are copied from the carbon racer photo to the M5. I can lower the carbon seat bottom a bit more which should match the leg angle on the M5 and get me a bit closer to the same seat back angle. I can also add a bit of padding to the carbon seat back which should get my back angle to exactly the same as the M5. Foot position on full extension is still a bit of an issue - I can't move my bottom bracket any further forward, so perhaps something to raise the shoe cleat off the toe would work.

After an hour ride on the new M5 position, I jumped onto the carbon frame and went for a spin. The position felt exactly the same which is good. I realized just how stiff the new frame is though - when I sit on the M5, it's a little bouncy. When I sit on the carbon frame, it's like sitting on a slab of granite.

The remote viewing system (get it? ha, ha (sorry - inside joke)) works well, but it's very difficult to steer and balance using only the video monitor. I knew that which is why I am planning on vacuum forming the fairing shell with transparent PETG plastic and leaving windows in the nose. I think to combine both the video camera with some windows would work well.

I have also been told that mounting the camera up high so it has a view of the fairing nose helps. I wonder if simply adding a small piece of paper shaped like the fairing nose to the front of the camera would work as well.


Still to do:

1. Add a rear caliper brake
2. Trace the real perimeter outline using an actual fairing half shell (when I get one!), and cut out the perimeter
3. Edge laminate the perimeter
4. Thicken the frame to avoid using the spacers on the brackets
5. Bond in the bottom brackets
6. Make new remote steering out of carbon and UHMW
7. Bond on the right hand rear wheel dome.
8. Bond fasteners to frame for the left hand wheel dome
9. Add a thin coat of epoxy to the left hand wheel disc because it is not air tight (and fill holes in the dome)
10. New carbon fork??


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