The plan is to finish the general massing stage (mass, curves, shape but not surface finish), the add a couple of layers of fiber glass to the plug to strengthen it so it won't easily be damaged when we pull our first fairing part off of it. I moved the plug over to the Innovative Wings hanger at the Springbank airport. We spend almost an entire day wetting out and trying to smoothen a quickly hardening piece of fiberglass material to the plug. It didn't work out very well and much of it ended up having to be sanded down again the next morning. I'm not a huge fan of that process, so I'm leaving the plug at Innovative Wings and letting the pros finish it, and pull a test fairing off for me.
The plan at this point is to produce a 4 or 5 layer glass fairing, then I'll add ribs to stiffen and strengthen where required (probably around the middle, circumference, base and mounting points). I should have an actual fairing by Friday - how exciting!!
|20. Filling in the big holes with drywall mud and sanding/carving/sculpting the rear fin.|
|21. "general massing" complete. Since this is not a surface finish stage, I'm not concerned about small holes and dents yet.|
|22. I applied a coat of epoxy resin mixed with micro, but first rolled the 'woodpecker' across the surface of the foam producing tiny holes for the epoxy to grab onto.|
|23. We spent WAY too much time wetting out the first piece of fiberglass. This method of sandwiching the fiber glass fabric between two sheets of poly works nice if it's important to control the amount of resin you are putting on your glass. Since this first couple of layers of glass is simply to make the plug stronger, I don't care how much resin goes on. We probably should have simply draped the fiberglass cloth over the plug and applied resin with a paint brush.|
|24. The pros like Ken at Innovative Wings are helping me with the fiberglass work|
Stay tuned for more...
Two Dooo LIST:
1. Buy and install right brake (FINALLY ordered it!)
2. Invent new cable tensioner to allow more steering bar turn radius3. Add front derailleur
4. Order 20mm axle bolts for the rear wheels (I'm using 1/2 inch now which isn't right)5. Design and machine 2 seat mounts out of aluminum to replace current steel ones (e-machineshop.com) LATER.
6. Design and machine 2 steering tensioners out of alum to replace LATER
7. Order a new front wheel! (Helen is kind of upset that I am user her Zipp race wheel!)
8. Start work on the first fairing (starting now)
9. Invent steering stiffener10. Add larger chain ring
and modify chain stays12. Fabricate new steering bar (aluminum or composite?) or rework existing
11. Make clamp-on out riggers and try to flip it (changed to#25)
13. Lathe an aluminum collar for .5" hub axles (Ben E. said he'd do it for me) (That didn't work - James is doing it for me now).
14. Design and build a trainer to fit mag trainer (donated by Michael Hoenig).
15. Replace steel cables with Kevlar (maybe not - I think the flex of steel is good....)
16. Crotch guard / fender
17. Narrow chain stays to allow foot to clear
18. fix derailleur
19. crank hitting chain stay
20. chain stay frame flex?
21. Narrow, high density foam for seat
22. Make front quick release safety23. Change steer cable sheaves to Pete Heals idea
24. Add missing and new webs27. Solve the rear stiffness issue (
25. Add a g-meter and quantify turning g's at flippage threshold. (add outriggers)
26. Widden the track width to 42 inches and test.
If the wider track is good, then build a whole new rear triangle)
|TOTAL distance on TCR1|
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