Nov 1

Nov 1, 2004

First good ride in the TCR2 streamliner!

I solved my fairing tab issue by giving up and taping the two halves together with duct tape. It occurred to me that one of the benefits to streamlining a trike is it's inherent stability sitting still. So, I made a brake lock, and a pivot lock and cut a new, larger canopy hole in the top. Then, I glued some Velcro tabs to the now removable canopy cover. I hop in through the large canopy hole, then pull the canopy cover down over my head after I'm seated. It works quite well - very easy to get in and out of - in fact, almost the same amount of effort as before. Here's how it's done:

1. Lock out the pivot so the trike stays upright

2. Lock out one brake so it doesn't move

3. Lift one leg over the side, through the canopy hole and step up on the seat bottom using the top of the front wheel as a support

4. Bring the other leg over the fairing wall and onto the seat bottom

5. Sit down onto the top part of the seat while moving feet off the seat bottom and onto the right and left chain stay frame.

6. Slide down to sit in the seat and move feet up onto peddles.

This one-piece, solid fairing might also work better for my final carbon fairing, as there won't be any separation line running thought the middle of the fairing - oh wait a sec... That won't work. I still need to be able to pull the top off to get access to the front wheel for tire changes, and all of the inside stuff... hmmmm... The final carbon fairing will be constructed with Nomex honeycomb material to give it stiffness all throughout the fairing so mating the top and bottom halves won't be nearly as much of a hassle as it is on this floppy fairing.

I ordered a custom acrylic bubble today from "More Than a Memory" Flower preservation people. I'll make a Styrofoam canopy tail for the bubble and glass over it. I'm thinking the whole canopy top including the bubble, large canopy cover and fiberglass tail will be removable for entry/exit and also for riding with the top down.

I finally got out for a good 60 minute ride today. The taped together fairing is a bit quieter than it was before - but still really noisy. It wasn't windy so I was also able to push a little harder to see what it felt like at speed. Since I was just tooling around the neighborhood, I didn't get a chance to do any watts testing - too many corners, hills, gravel, dogs, etc, etc. I won't know how fast this baby is until I get it out to Highway 22.

Jason from ThebikeAge.com offered to lend me his adjustable length SRM cranks. Before deciding for sure if I want to switch to a shorter crank (that will allow a smaller nose on the next fairing), I want to make sure than there is not much of an adjustment period and no loss of efficiency (physiologically).

These three shots show how the fairing tilts with the trike for turning.

On the agenda for tomorrow: watts test on hwy 22 and start working on the Styrofoam canopy tail box.


TCR2 (track) 2Do LIST:

1. Make a platform for the wind trainer (mini-rollers)
2. Add front caliper brake
3. Mount first fairing and all the work required with that
4. Make CF front wheel fairing
5. Make CF rear wheel discs
6. Make a new steering bar that rises up a bit higher - also takes up less room on the sides so fairing can be tighter
7. Adjustable seat height
8. Make fiberglass canopy top with acrylic bubble and tailbox
9. Paint this puppy!


TCR1 (cross country) 2Do LIST:

1 Add front derailleur
2 Run road, roll-over and watts tests for new suspension system
3 Worm gear steer prototype (Waiting for final design and parts list from Ben)

TOTAL distance on TCR1
725 km


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